||Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
|Original: || YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Bob Martin & Ray Snyder, 1970, FFA (TR): Alan Watts, August 1981, FL: Steve Byrne, 1984|
|Page Views: ||3,048|
|Submitted By: ||C Miller on Mar 9, 2006|
Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
This route climb the attractive left-arching corner system a short distance to the right of Zebra
and shares anchors with that route. Originally led without bolts, this was a serious lead; it was later retro-bolted and has became a popular (and safe) lead.
Lieback, jam and stem your way up the corner taking full advantage of the many edges for your feet, and occasionally your hands, to a crux at the very top of the route.
An excellent climb with technical movement and a heartbreaker crux at the top (for those who pitch off there). There are no real stopper moves on this route, and if you climb efficiently and don't get overly pumped it's in the bag.
You'll find this route immediately right of Zebra Direct
and two routes to the right of Gumby
8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Apr 21, 2011
The crux move of this route is somewhat contrived and totally skip-able by reaching left to the finishing jugs of Zebra Direct. I did this just after grabbing the two finger pocket before the crux and it felt mid-11ish. For the +, climb straight up using the pocket and small nubbins out right to an old bolt right of the chains. (makes a good directional)