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Zappa's Tooth
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Central Scrutinizer 
Dirty Love 
Flakes 
Sheik Yerbouti 
Spinach is my New Lettuce 
Titties & Beer 
Trouble Every Day 

Zappa's Tooth 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,100'
Lat, Long: 40.1783, -105.4896 Map
Page Views: 1,136. Good page?   
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Sep 17, 2011

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Zappa's Tooth, as viewed from CO Hwy 7 near Allens...

Description 

Zappa's Tooth is a 175' high secluded crag with really good rock and an outstanding view of the Allenspark valley, Mt. Meeker, and Wild Basin. Since it faces west, it enjoys afternoon sun and at 9,100' is perfect for the roasting days of summer. Route locations are generally listed with reference to "the Cavity", which is the large recessed alcove in the center-left of the face. The character of this rock is really full of features. The steep sections are often easier than they look. Knobular protuberances are everywhere.

There is still some development left to be done here too, so the adventurous aspect of FAs has not yet been exhausted. Fixed anchors, if any are required, should be placed from the ground up without exception. Think Zappaesque.

Zappa's Tooth was born after an evening of Zappa Plays Zappa in Denver the night before the first ascents. If you're fond of Frank Zappa or fine guitar playing, you'll understand. The route names are of course Zappa tunes, etc.

L->R:

A. Flakes, 8, 1p, 125', gear.
B. Dirty Love, 9, 1p, 175', gear.
C. Sheik Yerbouti, 9 PG-13, 1p, 175', gear.
D. Central Scrutinizer, 9, 1p, 175', gear.
E. Titties & Beer, 8+, 1p, 150', gear.
F. Spinach is my New Lettuce, 8 PG-13, 1p, 150', gear.
G. Trouble Every Day, 8, 1p, 150', gear.


Getting There 

The crag is located in proximity to The Ironclads and Punk Rock (see the map below). Take CO Highway 7 to Bunce School Road. This road has been greatly improved recently (summer 2011) due to logging activity in the area. Follow Bunce School road to the Punk Rock turn-off and follow this as far as you can. If you have a high-clearance vehicle and some skill, it's possible to drive much closer to this crag on FR 216A, possibly to within a half-mile if you have a serious rig. The road loops, but has a spur at the high point of the loop that leads to the top of the saddle behind the Ironclads. I recommend taking the left fork of the loop - some road building may be required. There is a sign at the saddle that says 216A "Dead End" (see pic below), and some cables have been placed to the right to prevent vehicles from continuing. Hang a right here and follow an old trail that leads up and over the hill to the backside of the Tooth.

The crag is clearly visible across the valley when heading south down the hill from Allenspark.

If you find UTM coordinates much better than lat/long as I do: 13 0458248 E, 4447545 N.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Zappa's Tooth:
Trouble Every Day   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet   
Spinach is my New Lettuce   5.8 PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Flakes   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 125 feet   
Titties & Beer   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Dirty Love   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 175 feet   
Sheik Yerbouti   5.9 PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 175 feet   
Central Scrutinizer   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 175 feet   
Browse More Classics in Zappa's Tooth

Featured Route For Zappa's Tooth
Flakes at Zappa's Tooth.

Flakes 5.8  CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Zappa's Tooth
This is the first obvious crack on the left side of the Cavity. It follows a series of nice, clean flakes up the buttress. Start in the dihedral and jam and stem up to the roof. Pass the roof on the right and continue up to the ledge. Go left to the face or right to more flakes.Walk off to the south.... all what we got here is American made, it's a little bit cheesy, but it's nicely displayed.... FZ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Zappa's Tooth Slideshow Add Photo
1) Flakes, 8. <br />2) Dirty Love, .9. <br />3) Sheik Yerbouti, .9. <br />4) Central Scrutinizer, .9. <br />5) Titties & Beer, .8+. <br />6) Spinach is my New Lettuce, .8. <br />7) Trouble Every Day, .8.

BETA PHOTO: 1) Flakes, 8.
2) Dirty Love, .9.
3) Sheik Yerbouti...


Topo of the precise location of the crag.

Topo of the precise location of the crag.

When you see this sign, turn right, step over the cables, and find the old trail.

BETA PHOTO: When you see this sign, turn right, step over the ...

Frank Zappa <br />1940-1993.

Frank Zappa
1940-1993.


The view from Zappa's Tooth.  Allenspark is near the center of the shot.  Mt. Meeker and Wild Basin behind.

The view from Zappa's Tooth. Allenspark is near t...

Storms moving in over Zappa's Tooth.  The outline of Mt. Alice and the summits of Chiefshead and Pagoda visible in the distance.

Storms moving in over Zappa's Tooth. The outline ...