Zappa's Tooth is a 175' high secluded crag with really good rock and an outstanding view of the Allenspark valley, Mt. Meeker, and Wild Basin. Since it faces west, it enjoys afternoon sun and at 9,100' is perfect for the roasting days of summer. Route locations are generally listed with reference to "the Cavity", which is the large recessed alcove in the center-left of the face. The character of this rock is really full of features. The steep sections are often easier than they look. Knobular protuberances are everywhere.
The crag is located in proximity to The Ironclads and Punk Rock (see the map below). Take CO Highway 7 to Bunce School Road. This road has been greatly improved recently (summer 2011) due to logging activity in the area. Follow Bunce School road to the Punk Rock turn-off and follow this as far as you can. If you have a high-clearance vehicle and some skill, it's possible to drive much closer to this crag on FR 216A, possibly to within a half-mile if you have a serious rig. The road loops, but has a spur at the high point of the loop that leads to the top of the saddle behind the Ironclads. I recommend taking the left fork of the loop - some road building may be required. There is a sign at the saddle that says 216A "Dead End" (see pic below), and some cables have been placed to the right to prevent vehicles from continuing. Hang a right here and follow an old trail that leads up and over the hill to the backside of the Tooth.
8 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Zappa's Tooth:
Trouble Every Day 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Spinach is my New Lettuce 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Flakes 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Titties & Beer 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Dirty Love 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 175'
Sheik Yerbouti 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 175'
Central Scrutinizer 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 175'
Featured Route For Zappa's Tooth
Trouble Every Day 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Zappa's Tooth
This line has some nice stemming, some decent jams, a bit of face, and a touch of OW. The crux is moving through the roof higher up the pitch. The "trouble" came in the form of a flake that chose to commit suicide after I had been stemming off of it for about a minute placing gear.Well, you can cool it,You can heat it . . .'Cause, baby, I don't need it . . .Take your TV tube and eat it'N all that phony stuff on sports'N all the unconfirmed reportsYou know I watched that rotten boxUntil my ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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