BETA PHOTO: Zappa Dome: (L-R) We're Only In It For the Money, ...
More sport climbing in the Stronghold. The rock here is more interesting (IMO) than Isle of You, and the bolt spacing is much closer (both vertically, and horizontally). You can decide for yourself if this is a good thing. With the exception of just a few bolts near protectable cracks, most of the bolting is quite good on a solid and unbroken face. This is a predominantly moderate area with most of the routes in the 5.9 to 5.11 range. South facing and warm, with little shade. Beware, in places the rock is still a bit flaky.
I believe that most of these routes were put up by the prolific Scott Ayers.
Just as you enter the Stronghold, you will pass a cattle guard. There is a sign here and a spur road to the right leading up past a couple of campsites (and the trailhead to Entrance Dome) toward Batline Dome and Owl Rock. Take this spur. This road gets pretty rocky toward the top, but I made it up with my Honda Accord, and I've seen other passenger cars up there as well. At the top is a small parking area under Batline Dome, and above a sinkhole/ravine. Obvious across the ravine is Owl Rock (home of Nightstalker, 5.9 **). From the southeast corner of the parking area, you can see Zappa Dome up the drainage (there is a big tree at the base of the wall). The Kerry guide, and the Falcon guide both have directions to Batline in them, but not Zappa Dome.
From the trailhead drop down into the ravine toward Owl Rock. As you get to the bottom of the stream bed, look for a faint opening to the left (continuing straight will take you to Owl Rock). Go up the stream bed under a gray buttress on the left (with a couple of bolts) and then back into the stream bed. Continue until a well-cairned trail climbs out of the drainage, up through the slabs and talus to the base of the wall.
Approach time: ~20 min.
Weather station 5.7 miles from here
18 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Zappa Dome
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Zappa Dome
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Zappa Dome:
Featured Route For Zappa Dome
One Size Fits All 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c AZ
: Cochise Stronghold
: ... : Zappa Dome
This route starts right of, and crosses over, Token of My Extreme. The trickiest part runs just left of an obvious water stain. There is a height dependent crux in this nearly vertical zone that favors taller climbers. Climbing remains tricky up to a large pocket and bulge, then become less vertical with easier holds to the anchors....[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
BETA PHOTO: Zappa Dome: Token of My Extreme (yellow line), One...
BETA PHOTO: Topo of Zappa Dome
BETA PHOTO: Climbers on the Zappa Wall (sport climbing area.)
Ron Roach follows a typical Zappa Dome sport climb...
Zappa Dome in the early fall, not another party in...
A busy day at Zappa in Feb 2006.
By Kendall Harris
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 16, 2016
There is a large wasp nest in the rock right below the second bolt on Burnt Weenie Sandwich. We didn't notice it from the ground because the wasps only came out from a hole in the rock when we started to climb around their height, two routes over.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 1, 2008
Warm and sunny. Take a 60M or 70M rope. A good concentration of moderate climbs makes this a great place to go with a less-than-hardman partner and have a good time.
By Karl Kiser
Mar 31, 2008
I would second Tony's comments on the area. A 60m rope is fine. Although there is shade for the belayer, it can be hot here by later March. The left side of the wall goes into the shade by about 3pm.
Apr 10, 2008
If anybody wants a topo, just email me and I'll send you a pdf.
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 13, 2008
At some point, I'll put together a topo for this area. There are several other areas I'll be working on before this one, so in the mean time, here's a list of the routes. They are in order from left to right.
Hope this helps you all enjoy this fun area.
1. Plooking and Thrashing 5.10a (avoiding the direct start) or 5.10c (direct start)
2. Keep It Greasy 5.9+
3. Friendly Little Finger 5.8+
4. It Just MIght Be a One-Shot Deal 5.7
5. Conceptual Continuity 5.9
6. Treacherous Cretins 5.9-
7. The Mud Shark 5.7
8. The Grand Wazoo 5.9
9. Burnt Weenie Sandwich 5.10b/c
10. Weasels Ripped My Flesh 5.11b
11. Latent Appliance Fetishist 5.10b
12. Playground Psychotics 5.10a
13. You Are What You Is 5.10a
14. We're Only In It For The Money 5.10a
15. Strictly Commercial 5.7
16. Excentrifugal Forz 5.8+
17. Token Of My Extreme 5.4
18. One Size Fits All 5.8 to 5.9+ (height dependent crux)
By marc farra
Dec 14, 2010
This dome is not worthy of the Zappa name. The climbs on this dome are broken ledgy and short. Seriusly there are way beter options at the stronghold.
By Greg Goodrum
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 1, 2015
This wall has some stout grades, but is excellently bolted and the climbing is some of the best cragging at Cochise.