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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Zap Snack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Patrik on Sep 13, 2012
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the current guidebooks (Rossiter's/Levine's), this single pitch starts with the broken crack on Fine Line to a large ledge then steps right and picks up the left-facing dihedral of the upper part of Terminal Velocity. An even better combo is to start with White Lightning. Pull through its crux and go up about 6 more feet to a hand jam crack. Step left and stand on a sizable jug of Terminal Velocity. Go up to the ledge and continue the dihedral.

This is a great first 10c lead in Eldo as it takes nuts every foot on the upper dihedral (the crux).


Protection 

Standard rack. Medium/smallish nuts for the upper half. Maybe a small cam (blue/green Alien?) to prevent gear zippering in the dihedral.



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