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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Air Mail T 
Backslash T 
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 
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Bottlenecks T 
Clean Dan T 
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Crazy Fingers T 
Cruising Lane T 
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Doc's Little Brother T,TR 
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Formula, The T 
Foxtrot T 
Funeral March T 
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 
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Highway 61 T 
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Pool of Blood T 
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Tampon T,TR 
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Terminal Velocity T 
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Three Lane Highway T 
Toprope Right of Formula TR 
Trip Itch T 
Tryptich T 
Whatever T 
Willow World T 
Working Class Hero T 
X T 
Xanadu T 
Zap Snack T 
Zip Code T 

Zap Snack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 493
Submitted By: Patrik on Sep 13, 2012

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the current guidebooks (Rossiter's/Levine's), this single pitch starts with the broken crack on Fine Line to a large ledge then steps right and picks up the left-facing dihedral of the upper part of Terminal Velocity. An even better combo is to start with White Lightning. Pull through its crux and go up about 6 more feet to a hand jam crack. Step left and stand on a sizable jug of Terminal Velocity. Go up to the ledge and continue the dihedral.

This is a great first 10c lead in Eldo as it takes nuts every foot on the upper dihedral (the crux).

Protection 

Standard rack. Medium/smallish nuts for the upper half. Maybe a small cam (blue/green Alien?) to prevent gear zippering in the dihedral.


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By Rick Vermeil
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 27, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The top of this route has a lot of thin stemming that gets increasingly harder on your way up. I don't know if you are intended to pull right on to the arete at the top to make it 10c, but it felt harder than the given grade topping it out straight up through the corner. I'm 5'9", so maybe it will be easier for a taller climber? Small - medium nuts are probably best to use but were hard to place with the wide stemming stance required. I used TCUs for most of the upper section and got pretty good placements despite losing a bit of a couple holds. This was a fun and challenging route that was worth the effort!
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