|Freak Brothers Dome
This route is called Zap #4 in Bartletts Wonderland book, not Zap Number 4, but mountain project won't permit the pound charcter in the name.
This is a really varied climb. Start into an outward-flaring chimney/off-width with lots of crumbly, chossy rock, and work your way halfway up where the route turns into a completely different climb. Burly awkward chimney moves give way to big platy holds, but the crumbly rock never really goes away. Be careful, a really solid hold might be right next to a ten-pound heap of crumbs just waiting for you to touch it and send it flying down. Even downward pressure only on many of the ledges is not solid.
From the top of the climb, downclimb to the right (south) or scramble to the top of the dome on your left (the middle dome) where there's three bolts with tatty slings and rap rings for a two-rope rappel.
This is the right of two chimneys on Freak Brothers Dome.
Cams from small to huge. Build a gear anchor in the cracks in the grainy rock near the east side of the formation
BETA PHOTO: Slings on the anchor at the top of the middle dome...