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Zamboni Man 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA:  Bill Schmausser, 1996
Page Views: 2,342
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jun 21, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Dominic Gonzalez-P­adron working the crux.

Description 

This is the sport climb on the arete/face to the right of Hollow Flake that Roger Wilkerson mentioned. Climb the right side of the pillar just to the right of the Hollow Flake start. The cracks at the top protect well with small gear. Swing onto the face, and follow the line of four bolts to the top. Belay/rap from the anchors above Hollow Flake. The crux is just before the fourth bolt where the face thins. It has good friction.


Protection 

Four bolts, small gear protects the start.



Photos of Zamboni Man Slideshow Add Photo
Starting the third crux sequence. <br /> <br />Photo by Brian R.
Starting the third crux sequence.

Photo by Brian ...
Norm on his way to the upper climbs.
Norm on his way to the upper climbs.
Nan leading Zamboni Man, just below the first crux (2nd bolt).
Nan leading Zamboni Man, just below the first crux...
Those nice men did let me try out their shoes though.  That was great.
Those nice men did let me try out their shoes thou...
At the second crux. <br /> <br />Photo by Brian R.
At the second crux.

Photo by Brian R.
Brian Rowe clipping the last bolt.
Brian Rowe clipping the last bolt.
I met these two nice men at the base of Zamboni Man.  They aren't as cute as the girls I met in Shelf Road though.  <a href='http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106859503' >www.mountainproject.com/v/106859503</a>
I met these two nice men at the base of Zamboni Ma...
Comments on Zamboni Man Add Comment
Show which comments
By Larry Shaw
May 29, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Wow, what a cool route...this is the first pitch of the Sprout Route. Starts off with a .7 move then a .8 then .9 then is in the .10 range through most of the top...fun moves right on the arete with a little exposure.

By Stewart M. Green
Jun 7, 2005

This is not the first pitch of The Sprout Route. I don't know what the name is or who did it. Anyone want to claim it? The first pitch of The Sprout is just to the right and clings past 2 bolts then up thin cracks to the Hollow Flake Ledge. Anyway, this arete route is fun and devious. The 4th bolt is hard to clip though and right in the middle of the route crux...

By Bill Schmausser
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 14, 2006

Stew,

That's my work on the arete, nearly 10 years ago now...damn, I'm getting to be almost as old as you...LOL!

I rated it 5.11-, but I was on the lead toting a Bosch...so it always seems harder...go figure. I agree with the posters, probaby hard 5.10. Name of the route is Zamboni Man. 5.10c.

Cheers,

Bill

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great route! Don't know if it's been retro'd, but there are 5 bolts. I'd say the crux was just below (still out of reach) the 4th bolt; secondary crux between the 4th and 5th bolts.

Edit 9/27/10: now that I've led this all the way through, I believe there is also a secondary crux at the second bolt; quite sequential and balancy.

By Drew McLean
From: Colorado
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Really nice climb. I felt the first crux was around 10b and the last move before clipping the 5th bolt was awfully thin to be 5.10. But maybe I missed a hidden hold on the arete side pull. Either way this is a really nice slab climb.

By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I agree with the two cruxes. I remember at the second bolt my partner saying this must be the business and then he got near the 4th and said, nope this is the business.

Has anyone else swung left after the 4th bolt onto the face and then came back up with the heel hook to get the 5th? It seemed to work well for us and is much easier than it looked. Great route and fun wierd exposure to the left.

By Paul Kaltenthaler
From: Colorado Springs
Jan 16, 2012

Bill, good job toting a Bosch up it. I've gawked at people on this for 10 yrs and finally led it on my 43 Bday last summer and was pretty damn proud of it. I thought it was spot on .11-, so let's let an aging rock rat have his pie, ok?

By cslice
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 5, 2013

Yikes, pretty spicy climb. Might want to get your ice skates out. Maybe more like 11a/b?