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BETA PHOTO: The thin crack of Zambezi is visible in the center...
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Zambezi features a beautiful thin crack, high on the left side of Mickey Mouse Wall.
P1. Begin by climbing the first pitch of Perversion
, an excellent, thin, RF corner. At the large ledge, about 25m up, traverse far to the right to begin the second pitch of Perversion
, but cut back left after just 5m. Follow a narrow ledge left past a few trees, and then hop up to a broad ledge below a clean, blank LF corner. 5.9, 35m. This pitch zigs and zags, so if you're placing a lot of pro, maybe break it into two.
P2. This is what you came for. Climb the aforementioned clean, blank, LF corner with no pro (5.9 R) for a few meters to a good small placement (RP or 00 C3). Make one more move to gain a jug and better gear. Above the corner, move up and left across a slab to a shallow roof (5.9 R/X). Stretch above the roof to clip a modern bolt (phew!), and then make a harder slab move up and right to the base of the obvious thin splitter. Climb this splitter, with a powerful and technical crux where it angles left. The crux involves reaching and passing a bomber hand-jam pod (and placing gear while your hand fills the pod!).
Once on easier terrain, follow the crack up to a broken ledgy area. You'll find a tree with rappel slings, and from here you can lower 35m back to the belay ledge (70m rope required!). Or scramble to the top of the wall (5.4). 5.12-, 35m (or ~50m if you continue to the top).
Descent: rap the route (a 70m rope helps). Once back at the large belay ledge below the crux pitch, scramble to climber's left along an easy flake, and then down to a lower ledge with a big tree with rap slings. Rap from here 35m to the ground.
RPs, double set of cams to #1 Camalot.
An overview of the whole route. The belay is marke...
By Scott Bennett
Jan 20, 2013
Here's a bit more beta on the crux pitch:
The runout to the bolt is serious: a fall could put you back on the ledge 10m below. The bolt might be a stretch to clip for shorter folks, but maybe small gear could be found just below it.
The thin crack starts off with surprisingly good finger locks, and offers a great jug before you must commit to the crux. I placed #1 Camalot at the jug. Make big moves up and left to the hand-jam pod, and make sure to jam high enough in the pod so that you can place another #1 Camalot below your hand. From here, figure out the crux moves to stand up in the pod and you're home free.