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BETA PHOTO: The thin crack of Zambezi is visible in the center...
Zambezi features a beautiful thin crack, high on the left side of Mickey Mouse Wall.
P1. Begin by climbing the first pitch of Perversion, an excellent, thin, RF corner. At the large ledge, about 25m up, traverse far to the right to begin the second pitch of Perversion, but cut back left after just 5m. Follow a narrow ledge left past a few trees, and then hop up to a broad ledge below a clean, blank LF corner. 5.9, 35m. This pitch zigs and zags, so if you're placing a lot of pro, maybe break it into two.
P2. This is what you came for. Climb the aforementioned clean, blank, LF corner with no pro (5.9 R) for a few meters to a good small placement (RP or 00 C3). Make one more move to gain a jug and better gear. Above the corner, move up and left across a slab to a shallow roof (5.9 R/X). Stretch above the roof to clip a modern bolt (phew!), and then make a harder slab move up and right to the base of the obvious thin splitter. Climb this splitter, with a powerful and technical crux where it angles left. The crux involves reaching and passing a bomber hand-jam pod (and placing gear while your hand fills the pod!).
Once on easier terrain, follow the crack up to a broken ledgy area. You'll find a tree with rappel slings, and from here you can lower 35m back to the belay ledge (70m rope required!). Or scramble to the top of the wall (5.4). 5.12-, 35m (or ~50m if you continue to the top).
Descent: rap the route (a 70m rope helps). Once back at the large belay ledge below the crux pitch, scramble to climber's left along an easy flake, and then down to a lower ledge with a big tree with rap slings. Rap from here 35m to the ground.
RPs, double set of cams to #1 Camalot.
An overview of the whole route. The belay is marke...
|By Scott Bennett|
From: Colorado, etc
Jan 20, 2013
Here's a bit more beta on the crux pitch:
The runout to the bolt is serious: a fall could put you back on the ledge 10m below. The bolt might be a stretch to clip for shorter folks, but maybe small gear could be found just below it.
The thin crack starts off with surprisingly good finger locks, and offers a great jug before you must commit to the crux. I placed #1 Camalot at the jug. Make big moves up and left to the hand-jam pod, and make sure to jam high enough in the pod so that you can place another #1 Camalot below your hand. From here, figure out the crux moves to stand up in the pod and you're home free.