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Right Wing Wall
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Zambezi Hatchet Head 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,651
Submitted By: Miike on Apr 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Pete on the sharp end

Description 

One of the best 5.8 pitches around CT. About 20 feet right of the "right wing" climb up and through a small roof. The opening moves are easier if you are taller, and protect with small gear. Follow the broken crack to the summit, it protects well after a spicey start. Oh, and large gear is not required, but I guess you can haul it up if you like. Cams to 2"ll do ya.

Location 

right end of the right wing wall

no anchors

Protection 

regular rack, even used the #4 camalot. the runout start can be avoided by climbing into it from the left under the roof.


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Last pro until the top!
Last pro until the top!

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By Eli Kramer
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Oct 16, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Top notch 5.8 with consistent technical moves for the first 3/4 of its length.
By CTYankee
Dec 8, 2009

Zambesi Hatchett Head is a fabulous climb with varied moves. I have climbed it dozens of times. The opening moves go easily with good footwork. I am very short and have no trouble with reach on this climb. It traditionally has been rated 5.7, and that is a fair grade.

Tip toe up the little ramp, then set a cam under the overhang. You can get two in if you are nervous. Pull the overhang, and climb up the crack. Small tri-cams are bomber in this crack. There is a short run-out face section on very positive edges. Set a piece and step through the next small overhang. Now you have a fabulous crack that eats gear. At the top of the crack, set a small nut and go for the top on inceasingly easier moves.
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
Aug 22, 2013

The first bomber gear is 15 or so feet above the ground, Right below overhang in horizontal crack. Plan on cratering hard if you blow the relatively easy move below the roof. Assuming you lead this straight up as in the above photo.
By Nic the brit
Jul 23, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Excellent four star route. Brilliant