Zambezi Hatchet Head
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Pete on the sharp end
One of the best 5.8 pitches around CT. About 20 feet right of the "right wing" climb up and through a small roof. The opening moves are easier if you are taller, and protect with small gear. Follow the broken crack to the summit, it protects well after a spicey start. Oh, and large gear is not required, but I guess you can haul it up if you like. Cams to 2"ll do ya.
right end of the right wing wall
regular rack, even used the #4 camalot. the runout start can be avoided by climbing into it from the left under the roof.
|Comments on Zambezi Hatchet Head
|By Eli Kramer|
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Oct 16, 2009
Top notch 5.8 with consistent technical moves for the first 3/4 of its length.
Dec 8, 2009
Zambesi Hatchett Head is a fabulous climb with varied moves. I have climbed it dozens of times. The opening moves go easily with good footwork. I am very short and have no trouble with reach on this climb. It traditionally has been rated 5.7, and that is a fair grade.
Tip toe up the little ramp, then set a cam under the overhang. You can get two in if you are nervous. Pull the overhang, and climb up the crack. Small tri-cams are bomber in this crack. There is a short run-out face section on very positive edges. Set a piece and step through the next small overhang. Now you have a fabulous crack that eats gear. At the top of the crack, set a small nut and go for the top on inceasingly easier moves.