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Zambezi (??) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: George Hurley/Rick Medrick FFA-Chris Reveley
Page Views: 463
Submitted By: Shane Z on Oct 16, 2006
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  • Description 

    P1 - Climb the right facing dihedral(1st pitch of Perversion) and belay at the tree. (5.9)

    P2 - From the tree, angle up and left through broken and rotten rock to the ledge with rappel slings for the rappel route. From this ledge, climb to the ledge above by climbing easy ground by angling left then right and belay under two poorly protected left facing dihedrals. (5.0)

    P3 - I suppose the original route climbs the left of two left-facing dihedrals. However, the right dihedral cannot be protected, and the left dihedral is rotten and poorly protected with dirt and lichen. Instead, climb the angling and 'flexing' seam a few feet to the left of the dihedrals. (We didn't locate the bolt at the roof, maybe it's been removed.) This seam protects with small stoppers and a good blue alien placement. Belay at the next rappel anchor with slings. (5.9+)

    P4 - From the belay- angle left, climb through broken rock, through a steep section (exposed!) to a ledge under a perfect finger crack with a small roof. (5.8S)

    P5 - From the belay, climb the finger crack, pull the roof on the left, and you will be staring the rappel anchors in the face. An awesome finish to a great climb (5.8)

    Rappel the route.


    Standard rack, nothing too big.

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