Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sweet Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atomic FireBall 
Butterfinger 
Cracker Jack 
Everlasting Gobstopper 
Good and Plenty 
Hot Tamale 
Jaw Breaker 
Kit Kat 
Lemonhead 
Mounds 
Now and Later 
Pay Day 
Peanut Brittle 
Pop Rocks 
Rick Krispie Treat 
Taste the Rainbow 
Thingamajig 
Whatchamacallit 
Zagnut 

Zagnut 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Daryl
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 994
Submitted By: Daryl Allan on Feb 1, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
A Fly's Demise

Description 

Pull over a small overhang down low, up to another 7 foot or so ceiling half way up then up a short, right-leaning dihedral to a few more face climbs to finish it off. Runner the draw in the corner under the big roof or even pull it after clipping the next ceiling edge bolt to reduce rope drag up top. Also, consider runnering the draw just above the big roof.


Location 

First route right of Payday. Starts up the left side of the black water stain.


Protection 

11 bolts to chain anchor, 60m rope.



Comments on Zagnut Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Dudley
From: Vegas
Mar 1, 2009

Only climbed this on toprope but the climb is awesome and very sustained. Very fun can't wait to lead it.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 1, 2009

Way to go putting up such a hard climb in this new area! Keep up the good work!

By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Feb 7, 2011

On 2nd thought, it really isn't worth it. Deleted..

By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Feb 21, 2011

On 3rd thought, Yes it is. Quit chipping my f&*king routes whomever you are. There are more than enough moderates here.

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 2, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Of the three 11s in this sector, I found Zagnut to be the hardest and Lemonhead to be the best.

To prevent rope drag I did the following:

  • Sling two bolts prior to roof
  • Back clean bolt prior to roof
  • Sling bolt after roof

Which is pretty much what Daryl suggests.

Sucks that someone would bring the climb down to their level by chipping. Very poor form.