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|Type: ||Trad, 5 pitches, 610', Grade II|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross, Rosemary Jennings, Layne Potter, July 26, 2007. Mean Lady Variation: Ross/Potter, Aug 21, 2007|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Jul 27, 2007|
Rosemary topping out on pitch one
Starts at the entrance immediately on the right(north side)of Three Finger Canyon up a Groove/crack system. Some pleasant climbing fairly well protected.There is about 610 'of technical climbing and several hundred feet of 4th class to reach the summit of the formation...
P1) Up the crack to near its top then step right and continue to double anchors. 160' 5.6.
P2)Straight up the easy scoop to double anchors . 100' 5.3
P3)Move belay about a 100' to the right to the center of the steep slab . Climb a short groove then up the steepening slab past 4 bolts to double anchors 150' 5.8+.
P4A) move belay down ledges to left to a water worn scoop .Up this to anchors.100' 5.2.
P4B)"MEAN LADY VARIATION" .Across and just right from the anchors at the top of P3 is a fine looking groove with a thin closed crack . This gives a much better and more direct finish to the climb.The first few moves are the main difficulties . Follow 3 pro bolts and two alien placements to double anchors. 90'5.9. Scramble 4th class right up wide slab ramp for several hundred feet to the ridge.
P5) From here climb easily up to a more difficult short crack just below the summit of the formation.(last pitch of "Layne Potter and The Sorcerers Stone") . 100'5.7.
Descent. Rap/scramble down the route. FA July 26 2007 . Paul Ross . Rosemary Jennings, Layne Potter./MEAN LADY VARIATION> FA. P.Ross L.Potter. AUG 21/2007
A groove/crack on the right side(north)of the entrance to Three Fingers canyon
Cams 1/2" to 3.5 Friends. Two 60m ropes
Forgot hammer for seating bolts! Layne produced su...
Paul on the 5.8+ 3rd pitch, lugging the lug....
Nothing like a few cold beers to help hydration af...
BETA PHOTO: Zadie's Ace formation .North side of Three Figure ...
Rosemary on the summit of Zadie's Ace Formation
P.Ross on FA of "Mean Lady Variation"5.9
After "Mean Lady"ascent not quite as hot as the Za...