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Z Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Season: Spring to Fall
Page Views: 2,533
Submitted By: Addict on May 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: Z-Crack. A pretty powerful climb, lots of fun.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crux is right at the base pulling over the overhang and feels stiff for the grade. Hint: put your right foot on the right seam. Stab for the nice finger jamb above then jamb the continuous fingercrack up to the anchor.

Location 

The obvious fingercrack on the left side of the formation.

Protection 

Cams to 2.5" with extra in the finger to micro size
50 meter rope


Photos of Z Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: crux
crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Good hand jam rest above the crux.
Good hand jam rest above the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Z Crack
BETA PHOTO: Z Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Playing around on TR.  This is the crux move.
Playing around on TR. This is the crux move.

Comments on Z Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
Sep 18, 2015

Sandbagged at 5.10c. An onsight lead of this route easily is 5.11a/b. Better have decent lock off strength and precise footwork to get you safely through the opening crux on this one. The upper crack is a joy!
By Pawel
From: WA
Apr 26, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fantastic climb (doesn't seem sandbagged to me), but why give crux beta in the description and ruin the on-sight for everyone?
By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
May 13, 2016

You can't top rope a climb and then declare it trivial! Climbs are graded on an on-sight lead. Not a top rope flash. Is that even a thing?! A rope assisted free-solo can't be far behind.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
May 13, 2016

I agree with John, this is a sandbag 10c.

Back when I had no trouble with any 10 at Index, I couldn't get this thing on TR. Perhaps I should go back and try it now, 35 years later. It would be like going for an onsight after all this passed time.
By AJ
Jun 3, 2016

I have to agree with Plotz... TR flash is excellent but an onsight lead is a whole nother kettle of fish and that's what the rating should reflect.
I led this in 2001 and don't remember anything except that it was very good. maybe time I returned for my onsight rope-assisted free solo? :) The grade should probably be changed to 5.9+ which covers everything from 10a to 11c anyway.
By hummerchine
Jun 3, 2016
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

5.10c for this route is a BRUTAL sandbag...even on TR! I've led it, toproped it, and solo/toproped it a zillion times...have it ruthlessly wired...and still don't always get it clean. No way to style your way past the crux...you have to PULL HARD with no feet.

Great climb though!

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