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 ADVANCED
Green Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Mother Ps ycho's Little Darlins T,S 
Banana Cake (Buttress) T 
Blade Runner S,TR 
David and Goliath T,S 
Fathers Dazed T 
Grass is Greener..., The S 
Green Banana Jam T 
Green Eggs And Cams T 
Greenhorn S 
Here and Gone T 
Hooterville T 
Josh and Dave's Route T 
Jump for Joyce T 
Krack a Tack T,TR 
Little Jack Corner T 
Missing in Action T 
Missing the Action T 
Monkey Business T,TR 
My Left Foot T,TR 
No Stars T,S 
Pettycoat Junction S 
Rock Candy T 
Samson and Dalieback T 
Time Warp T 
Toy Roof T,S 
Wits End T 
Wrench Warfare 
Wrist Rocket S 
Yurt Monkey S 
Unsorted Routes:

Yurt Monkey 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Sather Ekblad, Kevin Carmichael 1994
Page Views: 1,957
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 28, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Derek...Not monkeyin around...to the chains withou...

Description 

Squeezing the Lemon II has this in the wrong location. Low down on the south side of Green Slabs is a smooth concave brown face. The big chimney on the left side of this face is Monkey Business. On the right side of this face is Banana Pudding and Josh and Dave's Route. The arete bounding the right side of this face is the start of Yurt Monkey. In the overhead topo on page 52 in Squeezing the Lemmon II, Yurt Monkey is just right of #12, NOT where it is indicated by #14.

Start just right of the arete. Climb up to a bolt, step left around the arete, up a bit using several thin flakes, then back right to a ledge. I thought this was the crux section. Continue up the straightforward face to the anchors. At the last move I moved left to near the arete.

Nice enough route, but nothing special. Nowhere near as steep as it looks in the photo on page 42 of Squeezing the Lemmon II.


Protection 

Approximately 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with chains. It's a long way between bolts 2 and 3 and between 3 and 4 with ground fall potential. I used a green Alien between 2 and 3 and a #2 Offset Friend between 3 and 4. Anything in that size range would work.



Photos of Yurt Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
Pretty good exposure!
Pretty good exposure!
Chelsea Cook on Yurt Monkey
Chelsea Cook on Yurt Monkey
I wish i was cool enough to climb in that hat...Josh L. clipping.
I wish i was cool enough to climb in that hat...Jo...
Thanks for the pictures Charles!
Thanks for the pictures Charles!
Comments on Yurt Monkey Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 6, 2013
By Gary Sax
Jul 2, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I enjoy this route. However, I find most routes rated with a + a bit harder and would call it 5.9. The crux is down low but it is pretty sustained 5.8 the rest of the way.

By Wes Turner
From: az
Aug 10, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Some may want a nut when you get about half way. If your pushing it and blow it your in big trouble if ya fall. granted it is easy but like I said...don't fall

By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 28, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Start could be close to 5.9. Would recommend a piece of gear for the vertical crack on the runout between the middle bolts. Sustained and good fun.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jul 7, 2006

Yep definite groundfall potential between bolts 2 and 3 if you blow the traverse to the right..

By Braxtron
From: ...
Feb 5, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route. Bolt spacing keeps things interesting. I think the only place for pro is between bolts 3 & 4 (20' run-out). 6 bolts + anchor.

By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Nov 23, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I would say that the pro, where it is available, is marginal at best on this route. There are cracks on the route but they are not one's that would hold whippers. If my memory serves me correctly, there is also an odd flake/bubble to the left about fifteen feet off the ground that is the only hold. It feels a little unsound. Bottom line, have a good belayer that can pay attention, if you whip in specific places you will be on the ground unless the belayer starts sprinting (jogging wont do it) down hill. The grade seems dead on, but if your not used to climbing above gear, especially crap gear, go somewhere else.

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 28, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

this sandbagged route will take a solid nut between bolts 3 and 4. without it, though, it definitely deserves a solid R rating. you can easily deck between bolts 2 and 3, and even between bolts 3 and 4. even with the nut it's still probably PG13 material. i brought only draws and scared my belayer shitless (and i was getting a bit sketched myself). =)

all this being said, it's a lot of fun. ;)

By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 3, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I wouldn't call it sandbagged exactly. Tim Lee told me that there was a key hold on the start that broke off some time in the past. Probably makes the start a somewhat awkward .9. It is rather sustained too IMNSHO... Caveat: If you're leading don't forget that there's a large, rather sold block below and behind you when you get up 20 or so feet. Note also that STL II has this route and "Here and Gone" transposed on the topo.

By Johnny Ice
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 30, 2011

I like this climb because its balancy and thought provoking but at the same time its not too hard. It can be a little run out but I found a bolt wherever I needed one. Fun climb

By samlogue
Oct 22, 2011

Enjoyed this route 10/22/11. 5.8+ all the way.

By jim whitney
Apr 26, 2012

Johnny Ice is right on.

By Kemper Brightman
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The top of this climb is quite fun. Good edges abound and some decent exposure is possible if you look down valley near the top. Chill pills are recommended if you plan on leading this without placing pro.

By attila
Dec 27, 2012

Take a BD #1 and BD #2 along to protect between the run out bolt placements.

By David Adams
May 6, 2013

I thought the gear was super solid. Great route.