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Yucca Flower Tower
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Yucca Flower Tower 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: Mark Dalen, Charles Ware, 1977 FFA: Doug Drumheller, Paul Horak, Mark Leonard, Doug Teague, 1986.
Season: Spring, Fall, Summer.
Page Views: 3,063
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Sep 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Climber on the second pitch of Yucca Flower Tower.

Description 

After rapping to the base of the Yucca Flower Tower, head to the top of the pillar at your right (not the gully!). The route begins just at the top of this pillar.

Pitch 1 (80'): Head up the obvious crack though a small roof, continuing through a corner system. Below another roof, clip a piton, and move through some awkward roof moves. Just up and left of the crux, find the bolted belay (5.10b).

Pitch 2+3: Head straight up a fine looking finger crack (5.9+), after which you can either stop at a convenient belay ledge and make the climb 4 pitches, or continue up easy low angle climbing to the anchors on the rappel block.

Pitch 4: (We did not do this exit pitch, we went to the first rappel and exited at Great Escape, a MUCH nicer variation!) The original line climbs up and to the left of a right facing corner and to the top (5.4).


Protection 

Double set to #1 Camalot, with 1 #2, and nuts and slings (will want some to avoid rope drag) will suffice.



Photos of Yucca Flower Tower Slideshow Add Photo
The Yucca Flower Tower clear after some patchy weather conditions.
The Yucca Flower Tower clear after some patchy wea...
Looking up Yucca Flower's first pitch, fixed for solo ascent (summer 2000) ...
Looking up Yucca Flower's first pitch, fixed for s...
Comments on Yucca Flower Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By mattb19
Jun 29, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The 5.9 pitch felt like a hard 5.9. It was a sustained pitch but very enjoyable. Great route!

By longfeather
From: Albuqurque ,NM
Jun 30, 2008

Climbed this weekend Great Great route

did Var start to south for extra pitch. Is there a route comming up right 15m or so of the 10 B lots of lichen down low.. 11- or so little scary but took pro.

if standing on base of yucca flower look right and low at bottom of gully climb face that starts with a handle bar right facing lay back.
climb up to buldge with loosy right facing overhang to gaston like placement red C3 TCU and gray c3 TCU for pro rps and # 2 camalot also protect crux.

could take this straight up but decided to traverse left onto the yucca ledge and brought up second

looking for info this would be more direct to 10C pitch

Also out right excellent looking arete.with pro..??


We rapped gully instead of yucca face.

By longfeather
From: Albuqurque ,NM
Jun 30, 2008

10 b pitch is great

5.9 more like JohnD black canyon 5.9

By Ryan Curry
Apr 22, 2011

Athough I enjoyed the location and position of this climb I found the actual climbing to be somewhat mediocre. The rock quality on the first pitch was so-so, as was the gear and moves. Worth doing, but the other climbs in this area were, to me anyway, better.