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Lower Grotto Wall
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Unknown 13b? 
Victims of Fashion 
Wire and Fire 
YQ 
Unsorted Routes:

YQ 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b R

   
Type: Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 140'
FA: Matt Samet, Scott Leonard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 370
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jun 8, 2002
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Description 

This is a new second pitch to the Cryogenic Corner, stepping right off the belay ledge along a ramp into the fairly friable, white pegmatite. This route can be led as one long pitch, clipping the bolted belay with a long sling for gear, or broken into two pitches. If you do it in one pitch, use a 70-meter rope to get back to the ground from the chains atop the wall.

Step right from the belay on an easy ramp which quickly peters out. A bomber nut and a so-so blue TCU get you around the bulge into a faint corner with a good layback horn. Pump in some gear at waist level, fish in a sideways RP behind the horn and do the crux. Your next piece is about fifteen feet up in a good crack up and right. Finish in a small dihedral and step left onto easy ground atop Cryogenics, finishing at the chain anchors.

This route was done as a headpoint with all but the RP placed on lead. It can easily be toproped off the Cryogenics anchors. Though the gear *seems* good, it is in pegmatite. Beware flaky footholds and the possibility of a giant penduluming screamer down into the Cryogenics corner should the gear fail.


Protection 

Standard hand-and-finger sized gear get you up the Cryogenic corner. Brings stoppers, RP's, Metolius grey, purple and blue (1, O and 00) and a green Camalot for the crux pitch, as well as a few extra TCU's and a hand-sized piece for the upper bit.



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