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By yeego
Aug 17, 2012
Where is the best place for beginner climbers? I'm hoping to bring youth out to Joshua Tree this October, the 11th to the 14th. I've taken youth out to the Cochise Stronghold (AZ), the Enchanted Tower (NM), and Jurassic Park (CO) and know those areas well. We practice LNT and minimal impact well. Any info would be helpful.

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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Aug 17, 2012
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
yeego wrote:
Where is the best place for beginner climbers? I'm hoping to bring youth out to Joshua Tree this October, the 11th to the 14th. I've taken youth out to the Cochise Stronghold (AZ), the Enchanted Tower (NM), and Jurassic Park (CO) and know those areas well. We practice LNT and minimal impact well. Any info would be helpful.



Most youth groups tend to stick to Indian Cove.

The only other place I can think of that would be good for a group of beginners would be Trashcan Rock, although it gets pretty crouded on the weekends.

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By Unassigned User
Aug 17, 2012
Thin wall is a good TR wall. In RHV, moderate grades IIRC.

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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Aug 17, 2012
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
J Hazard wrote:
Thin wall is a good TR wall. In RHV, moderate grades IIRC.


Thin wall is a good TR wall, and most of the routes are pretty easy, but having taken quite a few youth groups climbing in the past, it is harder than what most youth groups tend to want.

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Aug 17, 2012
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
Trash Can Rock

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By Unassigned User
Aug 17, 2012
I was thinking of this. I agree Thin Wall is a little harder than ideal. Short wall is the one I was thinking of but I even got the area wrong, try Indian Cove. I do not know JTree like I should.

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By yeego
Aug 18, 2012
Thanks for the help. Been there once, so I'm looking forward to the trip. Hoping that october is an ideal time and not too hot.

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By yeego
Aug 21, 2012
I'm very interested in taking youth out to the Sheep Pass Area from October 11 to the 14th. So, heads up. At least one of those days, we'll be playing on Headstone Rock; the SW Corner and Cryptic look inviting. Sounds like the area is pretty popular, but we'll chance it. Kids from NM hardly visit Joshua Tree and the area looks to be ideal for a large group, 15- 18 total. Can't wait!

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Aug 21, 2012
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
SW Headstone..... you gotta be kidding me..... thats so lame.

#1 you are not on the ground, when you start.

#2 Its always popular and has a line up to start.

#3 It will spank your youths.

Trash can is set up for beginners... trust me.

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By Unassigned User
Aug 21, 2012
Guy Keesee wrote:
SW Headstone..... you gotta be kidding me..... thats so lame. #1 you are not on the ground, when you start. #2 Its always popular and has a line up to start. #3 It will spank your youths. Trash can is set up for beginners... trust me.


+1

First time I went to JTree we ran around climbing .9's and .10's, mostly crack. To finish the weekend off we went to Headstone. That thing is HARD (for a 5.6). I got so scared on the little step around the arete. Even on TR those kids better have their heads screwed on tight.

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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Aug 21, 2012
They're right. Headstone is just not a good choice. The lower part has some tricky moves and the middle section is kind of run out enough where you'd have to worry about someone taking a big swing if they fell. Then there's the problems of having all these newbies on top having to rappel to descend.

Trashcan Rock is far, far better. More climbs 5.6 and under than you can shake a stick at. Only about 40' long, straight up and down, pretty easy descent. There are probably some other smaller crags in the Lost Horse/Keys Corner area that might work too, Lizard's Landing maybe, but they'd still wouldn't work as well as Trashcan.

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By yeego
Aug 21, 2012
Thanks for your concerns, but we'll manage. Hopefully, locals will be welcoming and appreciate that youth have a chance to get off the couch and spend time outside. These youth are adolescence and are in need of adventure, lame or not. We don't have many opportunities to climb southern cali, so hopefully locals will be understanding. Climbing is just part of the experience, there is also belaying and supporting & encouraging.

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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Aug 21, 2012
yeego wrote:
Thanks for your concerns, but we'll manage.

I don't understand why you ask for advice from locals but then disregard it. I'm sure you'll have fun wherever you go. Josh is great. We were just trying to make the experience a little better given what you're stated goals were.

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By T. Stark
From Los Angeles, CA
Aug 21, 2012
HoD, one of my favorite climbs in the park. <br />Photo by Rob Miramontes
Ditto to Trash Can. Great place to learn to place gear as well.

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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Aug 21, 2012
yeego wrote:
and the area looks to be ideal for a large group, 15- 18 total. Can't wait!



Headstone is IN NO WAY appropriate for a large group. Aside from being extremely rude to the other climbers by dominating the two highly sought after routes, the "base" such as it is, is off the deck and would be a giant clusterfuck with that many people.

There are many, many crags you can go to that have 4-10 routes in a line where you can have half your kids climbing at once instead of 2 with the rest waiting around playing grabass 3/4 of the day, with flat bases that make good hangouts, no crowds, and won't screw other parties. Pick one of them. Don't be "that guy".

Morbid Mound, Trashcan, Thin Wall, Short Wall, Outward Bound Slab, Lizards Landing, Atlantis Wall, Rock Garden Valley, Dairy Queen...etc, etc.

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By yeego
Aug 21, 2012
Well, you all know more about the area, so I'll take heed and look into changing my plans. I do want an area where its group friendly. I'm hoping to give the kids an experience worth remembering, especially climbing granite. Any other advice is appreciated and welcome. Will continue to research the place and find an area soon. If you happened to be around at that time, stop by for a chat or hang with some Native American youth.

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Aug 22, 2012
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
I cant recall the name of the formation.

Go to Belle Campground.... easy short drive from Sheep Pass GC.

The formation, has a climb on it named "Belly Up" and one named Bellagosi something like that. You can drive your cars and park right there.

You will find a secluded place, in the shade most of the day.

There is a low angle face, about 5.3, a steeper face with knobs about 5.6 and a really nice Jam Crack in a corner 5.7...(Diagnostic it's listed on MP). and you can stand right there and show then how to Lie-Back or Jam ....and a EZ walk off or a cool rap from the top. I know Outward Bound uses this location and you will bother no one.

Once you figure out who the TIGERS are in your group, go hit HEADSTONE early in the am and get er done.

Have fun, JT is truly one of the most cosmic spots on the planet.

And please do a trip report, with pic

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By yeego
Aug 28, 2012
After researching the area more, I've realize what a cool place this is and that I need to spend some personal time here. My plans for an October trip with youth has been postponed. All the major campsites have already been reserved. The trip will happen the week before x-mas instead. We'll be at the Indian Cove campgrounds and seems like there are a ton of routes for novice climbers in the vicinity. Thanks for the inputs and ideas. My October trip will be to the Cochise Stronghold.

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By Rob M
From Fullerton, ca
Sep 8, 2012
Short Wall at Indian Cove, yes. Headstone, NO WAY, unless you want to get one of them hurt. Thin Wall and Trascan are good. There is an easy top rope with bolt anchors on top of Pixie Rock very close to Short Wall too. Walk up on back of Pixie and Short Wall, but Short Wall you need gear to set it.

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By Robbie Mackley
From Tucson, AZ
Sep 18, 2012
Me and Holden at the "Matterhorn"
In addition to it being totaly inconciderate to take up two highly popular routes with a group that large, it is also somewhat douchbaggy to ask for beta then basically say "thanks but no thanks, your beta sucks, I think Im going to do what I want anyway." Remember that when one of these youth are scared shitless, or worse gets injured because YOU "think you will manage," said youth (or youths) will be spending ALOT more time on the coutch. Maybe even a "chair" if your ego continues to control your better judgement. Just my $0.02
-Mackley

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By yeego
Sep 21, 2012
Chill out robbie, you can put your 2 cents where your cheeks clap. I don't understand why you are so upset, didn't mean to hurt your feelings. It's out of courtesy that I let people know ahead of time I'm planning a trip with some kids. I appreciated their feedback.

As much as I want to spend time at Head Stone, I realize it will be inconvenient for people.

I'm trying to expand my programming options. After 8 years with trips to Cochise, Jurassic Park, and the Enchanted Tower with kids; there's been no injuries or problems. Except, every now and then, we run across people that feel climbing should only be for "certain" people. They inadvertently show their weakness and provide us some entertainment. Most of time, people are supportive, considerate, or just curious. I'm not commercial, just lucky to work for a non-profit that encourages positive youth development.

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By Robbie Mackley
From Tucson, AZ
Sep 21, 2012
Me and Holden at the "Matterhorn"
nobody said you shouldnt take these kids climbing. I simply reminded you to head the advice of people who have been to / climbed the routes in question. just because nobody has ever been hurt by your poor judgement in the past doesnt mean it cant happen in the future. Hope your youth have a good and safe trip. And you're welcome for the reminder.
-Mackley

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By Fluoride
From Los Angeles, CA
Oct 5, 2012
Galen's Crack.  Tuolumne.  Hell yes!
Indian Cove. Totally. Can put up a bunch of TR's and all will be happy. Good range from 5.2-5.10.

Thin Wall in JT, on a weekend will usually see a group of parties on it already and the routes are harder for beginners.

Trashcan in the park is a good option but at this time of year may already have parties on it. Saw some on Sunday while dumping off some recycling at their bins there.

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By yeego
Oct 26, 2012
My trip is getting closer, and I have a couple more questions. What is the best guide book for the Indian Cove climbing area? Some routes seem to favor taller folks. How much of a factor is your height at Joshua? Say thankee sai.

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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Oct 26, 2012
yeego wrote:
How much of a factor is your height at Joshua?

Though some routes favor tall people, my general answer would be 'none at all'. Let's put it this way, Lynn Hill, who's 5'1", cut her teeth there and climbed circles around people.

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By MAR
Nov 1, 2012
Honestly, the guide I use most for Indian cove is a binder I cobbled together myself that contains info from Mountain Project on the different Indian Cove formations. I also use Vogel's Rock Climbing Joshua Tree Falcon guide, which has most routes in it, but is a little short on details. Some formations I'd recommend would be Billboard Buttress, Short Wall, Feudal Wall, and Pixie Rock, although Pixie tends to be a bit crowded. I also recall that Short and Feudal wall tend to be fairly sunny, which will be a plus as things get colder. Whatever you choose, have fun out there :)

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