This is a pleasant two pitch route with a variety of well-protected climbing: jamming, liebacks, face climbing, and a crux mantle near the top. It is in the shade most of the day.
standard rack, with one bolt at the crux on pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Yours follows the crack/flake just left of the rop...
First half of pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: finish of route "Yours", ends at anchor for P1 Gra...
|By Ryan Strickland|
From: Idyllwild, CA
Oct 30, 2010
Fun route. I've done both the 5.7 and the 5.8 variation on the first pitch. The flakes on the 5.7 route are pretty thin and don't inspire confidence in your pro. The 5.8 variation is challenging, be sure to bring enough small cams (<0.5 camalot) and nuts for the flaring crack.
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Great climb to start the day, stays fairly in the shade (from the face of flower) for most of the day. 1st belay station has a huge ledge with bolts. The only part I thought was "sketch" but still safe is the flakes after the first belay station (as noted in the topos from the book). The rock sounds hollow when you slap it a little. So just be careful on where you place your weight when going through that section.
The slab section on the 2nd pitch was fantastic fun, protected with one bolt.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jun 3, 2013
Good advice Ryan - and I should've read it before I got on this variation, I put a big Friend (#5) in the horizontal before I pulled the face moves up and left to the seam, then backed right off mistakenly thinking that the seam would be that void of protection for its entire length, if I'd have stuck with it I would have found that after a few moves the seam becomes a nice slot with plenty pro options in the size stated by Ryan.
I think I was influenced by it being a very hot slippery day and someone on Graham Crackers telling me that it was a flaring seam with not many protection options.
|By Gavin Bridgeman|
From: Tustin, California
Oct 12, 2013
5.8 variation is cool with a 00 or 0 master cam