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You're Scaring the Horses 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Rick Bradshaw, Josh Smith, & Rick Smith
Season: Spring, Summer, & Fall
Page Views: 361
Submitted By: Rick Bradshaw on Apr 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

You're Scaring the Horses is a second pitch Ergo and ascends the arete above and to the right of Ergo. Move the belay from the top of Ergo up two bolts to another set of anchors at the base of the arete to make the route 100ft, allowing the leader to be safely lowered using a 200ft rope. Classic arete climbing on beautiful rock with increasing exposure and difficulty culminating with ~20ft of sustained 11+/12- moves near the top. Rick Smith convinced a group that was testing their guns in the canyon below that they were scaring our horses on the mesa top when the route was being established. They said "sorry" and left.

Location 

Approach by climbing Ergo. CAUTION: It is about 115 feet from the top of Ergo to the top of the route. Move belay two bolts up the climb to a second anchor to allow safe lowering with a 200ft rope. Two 100ft rappels to the ground from the top.

Protection 

Bolts are somewhat sparce at the crux 'cause there's nothing to clip from, but then there's nothing to hit on the way down either (clean falls). Most folks won't need gunfire to get their horses scared on this one. Springer (1/2" SS wire gate) anchors at the top and bottom.


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 2, 2008

Don't be scared off by the comment that the bolts at the top are spaced out, THEY ARE NOT. The bolts at the top of this are not anymore spaced than anywhere else on the route, in fact they seemed quite closely spaced to me. If you have a 70m rope, and nobody is waiting to do Ergo, belay at that anchor it is a way better spot, nice big ledge as opposed to a hanging belay.
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Apr 3, 2009

I would Ditto Lee's comments, the bolting is just fine and the higher belay is cush.

good route