|The Bastille - W Face
Your Mother climbs the painfully obvious overhang that juts above the descent ramp on the west side of the Bastille. Access the route either via the steep climber's trail along the west face of the Bastille or walk a flat half mile along the Fowler Trail from the Rattlesnake Gulch parking lot.
This route, which climbs well-chalked underclings out the big purple overhang left of Neon Lights, often has in situ draws, facilitating the heinous last clip. Six bolts take you to double-bolt anchors. While very public, this is certainly one of the cleanest and most spectacular sport routes in the Front Range.
I once saw a photo of the route in a Feng Shui book that described the rock as a "benevolent frog spirit." Look at it from the top of the canyon and you'll see what I mean.
This is entirely a sport route, though you may be able to place a shaky piece before the first bolt if you're gripped. A #2 Camalot should be sufficient to anchor your belayer on the ledge.
|By Nate Weitzel|
Mar 27, 2002
Spectacular route on beautiful stone. Good moves that are actually quite moderate lead you to a painfully tough throw at the end. Fun route with great fall when you miss the crux move!!!
|By Anonymous Coward|
Apr 3, 2002
For full entertainment value, after sending the route lower off and down-clean the draws- at the lowest bolt have your belayer give you a touch of slack and then let go...good training for Elitch's Amusement Park.
PS The perfect place to be for late afternoon sun.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 13, 2002
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b PG13
Careful up there. The larger of the two holds by the 5th bolt is crunching and creeking so loud that your belayer can hear it. I had my doubts- I tried to work the crimper next to it and couldn't pull the move that way. Eventually, I got pumped and yarded on it anyway. It did hold me, but I would approach it with caution, if I tried again.
I think it is also the 5th bolt that is almost shattered out as well. There is no danger of hitting the ground if it were to pull, but you might get slapped in the head with a chunk of rock.
May 24, 2003
FYI...the last in situ draw has a sticky carabiner. I will replace it next time I am up there, but how do people feel about a wire gate?
|By Michael Sprague|
May 29, 2003
Willem, feel free to change that last sticky biner up there. Be warned that everything goes back with me when I take my draws down :) So, please replace it with a Petzl bent gate!
|By Michael Sprague|
Jun 9, 2003
I just wanted to thank the jerk(s) who stole my bottom two draws. Too bad you weren't strong enough to steal the rest!
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 26, 2005
Classic Eldo-style sport climbing at its best. The position is spectacular. This route gets right to the point in a short distance.
|By Joshua Merriam|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2008
Thanks for the replacement work. I've been trying this route a bit lately. It is way hard to clip that last draw. I just skip it, but alas I fell reaching for the anchor anyhow. I'll go back and get it next time.
The last bolt seems further away than all the previous ones. It makes sense to me to move it down 16 inches or so. Good idea!
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 17, 2008
Great way to finish any route on the Bastille. I do it almost every time I climb up there.
|By Peter Beal|
From: Boulder Colorado
Oct 25, 2008
An interesting debate at the ACE site. Colin stated directly that the bolt in question was a mistake but many said it added to the "character" of the route. Thanks Matt for at least offering to fix the problem.
|By Colin Lantz|
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 27, 2012
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b
Did the FA on August 1, 1988. On a historical note, I am pretty sure that this was the first new route put up in Eldo with the bolts being placed with the aid of a power drill (Bosch Bulldog).