Your favorite California crack climbs...

I'm looking to get after it this season, and I want to send all the cracks I can in CA. Fingers, hands, fists, odd-width's... you name it.

So, help me build a worthy ticklist! What are your favorite crack climbs in North and South California?

Worthy crack climbs taken down thus far... Central Pillar of Frenzy in Yosemite, the Line at Lover's Leap.

If you want to get after some crack too, I'm game!

Serenity / Son's of Yesterday link up.(Yosemite)

With full acknowledgement that I haven't done many of the best ones yet, here are some personal favorites from around the state:

Donner Summit-everything at the Snowshed wall, esp. Nova Express, Farewell to Arms and Peter principle.

Eagle Lake Cliff: Seams to Me, Space Truckin, Quest for Glory

Woodfords canyon: One of these days

Calaveras Dome: Wall of the Worlds(recommend doing two awesome 5.9 face pitches then rapping, also low elevation and south facing so don't go midsummer)

Incredible Hulk: Positive Vibrations (maybe best in the universe?)

Tuolumne: Phobos, Diemos, Third pillar of Dana

Pine Creek: Pratt's Crack

Cardinal Pinnacle West Face

Dome Rock: Tree Route, Anti Jello Crack

Needles: Thin Ice, Fancy Free, and just about everything else.

Enjoy!

West crack Daff dome, tuolumne. Also want to do Mr. Natural, GPA.

Hit me up, I live on the peninsula and have plenty of time off for climbing.

Scott

Tahquitz and Suicide:

• Flower of High Rank 5.9
• Insomnia 5.11b/c
• Munge Dihedral 5.10a
• Super Pooper 5.10b (easier than Munge Dihedral, imo)
• Vampire (P1 for crack) 5.10d
• Open Book 5.9

- Serenity-Sons
- Mr. Natural (a bit of an overlooked classic)
- Clean & Jerk (arguably not a crack climb)
- Airy Interlude

Cool thread!

a few Joshua Tree Cracks (my first trip last week, and we hit some classics!)

Colorado Crack .9
Exorcist .10a
Illusion Dweller .10b
Rubicon .10c

Bony Fingers.....In Whitney Portal,... do the 11a face start, for best enjoyment.

at T&S ... be sure to add, The Bat Crack, The Y-crack and Johnny Quest.

also at a place named DanLand, close to Three Rivers.... RaceCrack Crack

get crackin

Sheila, Pine Creek Canyon near Bishop. 175 feet of awesome granite. #6 optional, but I'd bring it.

Dylan, you can probably just look at all 3.5+ star trad routes in Cal and find a pretty comprehensive list :P

Two of my personal favorites, of a bouldering variety, are Cedar Eater (offwidth roof) and Bachar Cracker (overhanging handcrack) in the Valley. "Hard Crack" in the Happy's is also worth the short side-hike and has such wonderfully secure ringlocks.

Other roped favorites that haven't been mentioned yet are Snakebite and Rawhide at the Grotto (a great day trip from SF) and all the stuff around Reed's Pinnacle in the Valley (Direct, Ejesta, Lunatic Fringe).

Ant Line in horse flats. Full disclosure i just really need to see someone do it

This is the best thread subject in quite some time. Albeit with a regional bias on my part. I tried Pig Pen and Big bobs big wedge for the first time recently; both very awesome additions to the cracked boulder variety. Both in Joshua Tree.

Whoah... what a great response. In coordination with another thread I found online, I've been able to accumilate 80+ crack climbs and boulder problems. Very few are in Yosemite, so the list can surely grow! I'm going to figure out a way to get either a PDF or Google spreadsheet up and running for all those who've expressed interest, or may be interested in the future.

Thanks, all!

D

Needles:
Igor Unchained

JTree:
Illusion Dweller
Strawberry Jam
High Strung
Double Cross
Ball Bearing (link P1&2)
Pope's Crack
Drawstring
Comic Book

Yosemite:
Stone Groove
Moby Dick
After Seven
The Surprise
Sacherer Cracker
Sherrie's Crack
OZ (Tuolumne)

Sequoia:
South Crack (S. Face Moro)

Admitting that there are a ton I haven't done but here are some of my favorites:

Fingers: Central Pillar (P2),
Hands: Igor Unchained, Airy Interlude, New Moon/Firecracker, Red Dihedral (P5?)
Stem: Hospital Corner
Wide: NE Buttress Higher Cathedral, Midterm

Top on my to do list:
Positive Vibrations
Polish Route
Thin Ice
Don Juan
OZ
Mithril Dihedral

Butterballs in the Valley has to be on this list.

R. Moran wrote:Serenity / Son's of Yesterday link up.(Yosemite)

I haven't climbed a ton in CA, much less cracks specifically. That said:

Phobos and Deimos in Tuolumne are both fantastic 5.9 multi pitch climbs. Someone else mentioned them up thread as well.

More J-Tree:

Tax Man
White Lightning
Mental Physics
Touch and Go
Dog Leg
The Flake
Sail Away

More Lovers Leap:

Scimitar
Haystack Crack

Headed to J Tree 3/24-3/27 from the East Bay... anyone want to partner up and tick some of these rad routes?

Hey Dylan, I might be down for jtree,it looks like I'm going to be working a bit in SF the next couple months, I'd be game for anything around the Bay Area too, let me know.
Nick