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Rainy Day Rock
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Your Brain on Rain S 

Your Brain on Rain 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1996
Page Views: 359
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Get the first clip before starting. It is useful to drop back to the ground and use a slight variation for the actual climbing. A tricky move off the deck leads to the crux at the second bolt. Another clip and the anchors is the whole story.

Very pumpy for such a short route. Your Brain on Rain shares an anchor with Swinging in the Rain, and this provides a convenient top rope, if you are not up to leading the mantle move on Swinging. Or, set it up vice-versa.

N.B.: Your Brain leans a lot to the left and this makes for some TR problems, if that is what you plan on doing. Good place in the rain, but don't expect much sun.

Location 

Your Brain is the furthest route on the right side of the crag, just past some blocks.

Protection 

QDs only. This 35 foot route needs three to four draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


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By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Oct 2, 2001

Agreed, a short route with a good pump, as with the other lines on this little crag. The climbing should be done straight up to the first bolt, perhaps clipping the bolt and then lowering, not doing this I think would avoid the crux. If you do toprope this route, perhaps lower and place a draw on the second bolt, because once past here you should be home free. Dont step on the block to start this route, that would take the fun out of this.
By Erik Durgin
Sep 14, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Fun V3+ boulder problem that's really worth doing. Don't blow the second clip.
By JP3
From: Missoula, MT
Mar 28, 2007
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Lets restore some integrity to the 5.11 grade, there is no way that this route is 11+, I'm not trying to strut my ego but this seemed like 11-. Cool route though, the second clip should not be blown!
By chipacles
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

I like the movement and wish it were a bit longer. It is pumpy, and a bit heady and burly, but I still wouldn't give it 11+ either. A straight 11 seems fair, given the difficulty/danger of the first clip (and even second clip should be done carefully!).

Overall, fun, just be careful not to blow the first two clips!