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San Ysidro
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Face Lift T 
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Return On Investment T 
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Vanishing Flakes T,TR 
Weeny Roofs, The T 
Young William T 

Young William 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ted Stryker, John Ford (1987)
Page Views: 750
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Wonderfully subtle face climbing on marginal holds--you must have mastered this surface to hold-on. Simply "visionary."

This route climbs the face 8 feet right of the SY-classic "Vanishing Flakes." Climb past a mangled lead bolt without hanger and up to the second bolt of Flakes. Give your feet a break on a small ledge before stepping up and right on a blank face.

Finish on the upper half of Rockoco.

Mostly a top-rope or a solo.


Protection 

I have not led the lower face (ie the crux) of this route. I can say from a distance that the only pro on the bottom 40 feet is 1 bolt (the second bolt of Vanishing Flakes).

Gear: 1-2 inches for the 5.5 crack above, which is shared with Rockoco & Flakes.

Two 1/2" wedge bolts with chains for a top-anchor (shared with Rockoco and Flakes).



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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 27, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R

Leading Young William is an exercise in mental/calf-muscle focus. Luckily, the higher you go, the easier it gets (sort of). I'd recommend a crashpad (or two, or three) for the start. Think of this route as a 20 foot V4 or V5 boulder problem to a bolt. The late, great Kevin Brown, upon hearing of my recent ascent of this route said "so why haven't you soloed Vanishing Flakes yet?"

Considering the height of your first clip, he does have a point. Needless to say, approach this route carefully, and climb it the same way. In my opinion, Young William is a FAR superior line to Vanishing Flakes, and not simply because it is harder.

By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 5, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R

who chopped that 'mangled lead bolt?'

too bad. it's a bit of an ankle breaker. don't fall!

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 12, 2008

To say "chopped" is being a bit generous. The person beat the snot out of it.

I have heard through the grape vine that the individual who did this was put-off by the presence of a new lead bolt on an old route. That individual's answer to the offense was to do further damage to the route--the same thing that happened atop Fine Line around this saMe time. When the first leAd bolt on Applied Magnetics was removed aRound this same time, it got a proper (and rather artful) patch job...thanKfully.

By Josterling
Sep 9, 2012

Hey guys not completely sure the exact line for this route?? I.e. their is one hold (the deep two finger pocket) on the far right of vanishing flakes. would venture to say that is not part of young william, but just wanted to get a description from someone from the area who knows. Thanks

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R

The "deep" two-finger pocket can be used on Young WIlliam—this, according to Kevin Brown, who ought to have known. The cruxy moves on YW are down low, and there is a scary hand-foot match past the two-finger pocket that is also memorable. If you traverse too far left at the two-finger, it becomes Vanishing Flakes. Moral of the story? Young WIlliam is a little bit of a squeeze job, in my opinion. Still hard, however. And committing.

By Josterling
Jul 10, 2013

Sent. A little scary i deffinetely used a pad... falling clipping the first bolt (second of vanishing) was a little as in a lot scary. Thanks for the clues andy.