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Young Warriors 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,870
Submitted By: Dan Flynn on Aug 12, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Adam Snyder leading pitch #4. I thought this was a...

Beacon Rock is open from July 15, 2016 through February 1st, 2017. See note for more details. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Adventurous, wandering multipitch through mostly good rock. Describing it as I did it recently, although we were never quite sure if we were on route after the first two pitches!

P1 5.8 Straightforward march up mostly blocky slabs. Two bolt anchor.

P2 5.9 Head left towards the A-shaped feature. Cool moves over the flexing flakes... head more or less straight, not left to the tree belay, but up to 2-bolt anchor.

P3 5.9 Routefinding adventure. Straight up arete with fun moves, through crux dihedral, and then wander up and slightly left to large belay with two rusty pins. 'Die yuppie scum' was written on the rock for some reason...

P4 5.9 Traverse left, then up some easy terrain. Crux is getting on to, across, and over a slab section protected by a bolt and a piton. Fun stuff. There is a small grassy ledge a bit above this which would have made a better belay than what I did, which was to keep going up some nice rock until meeting the SE Face Route.

P5: Join the SE route for an easy scramble to the top, then walk off.

Location 

Starts on the east side of the tower. Walking on the trail, just before arriving at the south face there is a short trail heading up to the tower. The first pitch is recognizable for the bolts and the cleaned-off path through the lichen.

Protection 

Enough bolts to give you a bit of a line to follow. Guidebook suggests gear to 2.5", and I think we used the 3 once to build an anchor. Anchors are mostly bolted, if you find them.


Photos of Young Warriors Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Here I am coming up pitch 4. It starts out a bit t...
Here I am coming up pitch 4. It starts out a bit t...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the big belay ledge at the top of the 3rd ...
BETA PHOTO: This is the big belay ledge at the top of the 3rd ...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the 2nd pitch after the "cave feature...
BETA PHOTO: This is the 2nd pitch after the "cave feature...
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Snyder leading the first pitch. The line goes...
BETA PHOTO: Adam Snyder leading the first pitch. The line goes...
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing on the SE Face route ... in the sunshine
Finishing on the SE Face route ... in the sunshine
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting P3 (view from the not recommended tree be...
Starting P3 (view from the not recommended tree be...

Comments on Young Warriors Add Comment
Show which comments
By benberry
Aug 14, 2016

CONDITION REPORT 
The left anchor bolt at the top of the 1st pitch is pretty wiggly, just making sure that it get's on the list of bolts to replace. Right bolt feels solid. Also worth noting that the 2nd pitch has a few loose flakes in the butthole/A-hole, definitely pull down and not out on those. Thankfully you can avoid having to step on the loose stuff. This is a super fun climb.
By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Aug 13, 2012

I don't have the book -- please add in the comments any other relevant info (FA, pitch descriptions) and I'll update the route description.
By ChiHarris
From: Portland, OR
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Overall this is a great route. Pitch two has some chossy flakes in the lower part of the pitch, but is protected with bolts below the chossy section and has a bomber cam placement right after the section in a nice, but short-lived finger crack (I used a yellow alien). Fantastic climb with great views. Many people complain that the route finding is difficult, however I never ran into any hiccups.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Aug 12, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Approach: the first route you will come to if coming from the east side. A small trail goes up to the wall, before you turn the corner to Cruisin's big oak tree.

Pitch 1 - Long, sustained, but nothing too difficult. Protected by several bolts, but small-medium stoppers will also serve you well. Belay at a pair of super-beefy bolts at the top of the slab.

Pitch 2 - Step out left to a bolt, then undercling on questionable rock and smear on a blank face to reach a big cave of flexing flakes (got a #3 in the left hand side). Finesse your way through this (down not out) to reach a short but sweet finger crack. Don't get caught up in those easy blocks; go out right to another pair of beefy bolts. The SE Corner's tree ledge is 25' up and left. Once you leave this anchor, the only way down is up.

Pitch 3 - Starts with a bang! Right in front of you, the sweet dihedral: finger jams and smearing feet. Then huge holds appear and you scramble up past several ledges. Continue up to a final vertical section. Don't get sucked left, go right and up past a fixed pin. Traverse over and up on easy rock to the Rusty Pin ledge - two pins in an alcove can be used for anchors, or build your own. Sweet hangout ledge.

Pitch 4 - Step left on big holds, and try to fiddle in some gear. Or just pull up to that 1/4" bolt (eww!), then wrestle with the block to gain a series of small ledges. Continue up until you hit a series of mini-roofs with a fixed pin. Step around these on cool holds and pull out the right side. When you see two angle iron bolts, ignore them and move up a slot, then up onto a face with a bolt, then around a corner to the left, then across a totally blank 50-degree slab, then up on bigger holds with some decent exposure. Meet up with the SE Corner.

Pitch 5 - Can be pitched out, simul-climbed, or solo'd. Follow the chunky shoulder up to a dirt trail which takes you up to a metal fence and the hiker's trail. It's 5.4 at most.

Grade III
By Jcweinsx
From: Beaverton, Oregon
Oct 5, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A quality route. Interesting and engaging climbing. Not recommended if not strong leader for the grade due to sporadic gear placements in some areas. Great cracks but also lots of slab. I used small stoppers often. Sometimes bolts are hidden and route is not always obvious.
By George Zack
From: Grand Junction, CO
Aug 3, 2015

First two bolts on P.4 replaced, Aug. 2015. Thanks ASCA for the bolts.
By Byron Marohn
From: Portland, OR
Aug 9, 2016

This is a pretty cool route. I was sure glad that blank slab was protected by a brand new bolt rather than a quarter incher...

To add to Nate's routefinding info - the only place we encountered routefinding troubles was pitch 3. About 2/3 of the way up there's a hard sequence with a couple fixed pins - go mostly straight up and very slightly right following the cleanest section of rock through this hard section, then afterwards traverse up and left over easy terrain to a big ledge. There weren't any decent gear placements on this traverse, but it was easy. You can see the first brand new bolt of the 4th pitch to the left of the ledge about 10' up.
By Richard Denker
From: Portland OR
Sep 17, 2016

I whole hearty recommend a 70m rope. Reason is if you decide to rap off after the first pitch you will need a 70m to reach the ground. And depending where you end the 3rd pitch, the 4th pitch could be quite long, 60 meters may just reach.

On the second pitch to exit the “big cave of flexing flakes” climb to its top apex where you will be able to climb the “short but sweet finger crack”. (Quotes from Nate Ball 12-Aug-2013 comment.) We did not find a use for a #3 cam on this pitch unless there was a spot near a non-flexing flake, which we did not see.

The third pitch is a long shallow dihedral. At an old piton near the top of the dihedral either continue up the dihedral or move right for an easier but dirty and unprotected face climbing to the same anchor in an alcove. Just below the alcove is a small grassy ledge with a 5-foot tree. This is where we belayed.

From the grassy, small tree ledge you can clearly see two arching to the right roofs. Pitch 4 traverses to the left of the arches to a rounded buttress. In traversing from the grassy, small tree ledge you will enter and exit the belay alcove that Nate Ball describes in his comment.

After the rounded buttress there are a number of possible routes to the final Young Warriors belay stance on the SE Corner. If you head too far to the left you may get on the upper part of Cloud Nine 5.9 or Elusive Element 5.10d. In any event pitch 4 is long roughly 60m, most out of sight (and maybe out of sound) of your belayer. And the final part is the only route finding issue we had and may include sparely protected 5.9+ friction slabs.

At the top of each pitch there is a bail point. The top of pitch 1 is a 110’ rap. At the top of the 2nd pitch head left on the ledge until an easy climb leads to the tree ledge of SE Corner and then either finish the SE Corner of if you know how to find the top of Jill’s Thrill, rap it. At the top of the 3rd pitch a short rap down from the belay alcove, or down and to the right from a small grassy ledge with a 5-foot tree on it, will being you to pitch 4 of the SE Corner route. For this you may have to leave gear for the rap and you will have to set up an anchor in mid-pitch of the SE Corner.

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