Adventurous, wandering multipitch through mostly good rock. Describing it as I did it recently, although we were never quite sure if we were on route after the first two pitches!
P1 5.8 Straightforward march up mostly blocky slabs. Two bolt anchor.
P2 5.9 Head left towards the A-shaped feature. Cool moves over the flexing flakes... head more or less straight, not left to the tree belay, but up to 2-bolt anchor.
P3 5.9 Routefinding adventure. Straight up arete with fun moves, through crux dihedral, and then wander up and slightly left to large belay with two rusty pins. 'Die yuppie scum' was written on the rock for some reason...
P4 5.9 Traverse left, then up some easy terrain. Crux is getting on to, across, and over a slab section protected by a bolt and a piton. Fun stuff. There is a small grassy ledge a bit above this which would have made a better belay than what I did, which was to keep going up some nice rock until meeting the SE Face Route.
P5: Join the SE route for an easy scramble to the top, then walk off.
Starts on the east side of the tower. Walking on the trail, just before arriving at the south face there is a short trail heading up to the tower. The first pitch is recognizable for the bolts and the cleaned-off path through the lichen.
Enough bolts to give you a bit of a line to follow. Guidebook suggests gear to 2.5", and I think we used the 3 once to build an anchor. Anchors are mostly bolted, if you find them.
Finishing on the SE Face route ... in the sunshine
|By Dan Flynn|
Aug 13, 2012
I don't have the book -- please add in the comments any other relevant info (FA, pitch descriptions) and I'll update the route description.
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Overall this is a great route. Pitch two has some chossy flakes in the lower part of the pitch, but is protected with bolts below the chossy section and has a bomber cam placement right after the section in a nice, but short-lived finger crack (I used a yellow alien). Fantastic climb with great views. Many people complain that the route finding is difficult, however I never ran into any hiccups.
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
Aug 12, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Approach: the first route you will come to if coming from the east side. A small trail goes up to the wall, before you turn the corner to Cruisin's big oak tree.
Pitch 1 - Long, sustained, but nothing too difficult. Protected by several bolts, but small-medium stoppers will also serve you well. Belay at a pair of super-beefy bolts at the top of the slab.
Pitch 2 - Step out left to a bolt, then undercling on questionable rock and smear on a blank face to reach a big cave of flexing flakes (got a #3 in the left hand side). Finesse your way through this (down not out) to reach a short but sweet finger crack. Don't get caught up in those easy blocks; go out right to another pair of beefy bolts. The SE Corner's tree ledge is 25' up and left. Once you leave this anchor, the only way down is up.
Pitch 3 - Starts with a bang! Right in front of you, the sweet dihedral: finger jams and smearing feet. Then huge holds appear and you scramble up past several ledges. Continue up to a final vertical section. Don't get sucked left, go right and up past a fixed pin. Traverse over and up on easy rock to the Rusty Pin ledge - two pins in an alcove can be used for anchors, or build your own. Sweet hangout ledge.
Pitch 4 - Step left on big holds, and try to fiddle in some gear. Or just pull up to that 1/4" bolt (eww!), then wrestle with the block to gain a series of small ledges. Continue up until you hit a series of mini-roofs with a fixed pin. Step around these on cool holds and pull out the right side. When you see two angle iron bolts, ignore them and move up a slot, then up onto a face with a bolt, then around a corner to the left, then across a totally blank 50-degree slab, then up on bigger holds with some decent exposure. Meet up with the SE Corner.
Pitch 5 - Can be pitched out, simul-climbed, or solo'd. Follow the chunky shoulder up to a dirt trail which takes you up to a metal fence and the hiker's trail. It's 5.4 at most.