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Rock Garden Valley - Left Side
Routes Sorted
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Beck's Bet T 
Double Dogleg T 
Euthyphro T 
Fortune Cookie T 
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 
Personal Space TR 
Pop Rocks T 
Rock Candy T 
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 
Rock-a-Lot T 
Silent But Deadly T 
Smithereens T 
Spitwad T 
Split Personality T 
Top of the Pops T 
Yi T 
Young Lust T 

Young Lust 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ed Kaufer and Scott Hoyle, 1979
Page Views: 2,379
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (95)
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Dan D leading Young Lust (5.8+) in the Rock Garden...

Description 

This route and it's neighbor (Smithereens) lie on the shorter face left of Rock Candy and climb heavily featured thin cracks with lots of varnish.

Face climbing with the occasional jam is the name of the game here with the crux a thin move above a horizontal crack around mid-height. Higher, as you near the top the protection is somewhat scarce, but the generous nature of the holds makes this of little concern. The anchor is set back from the edge on a comfortable ledge so if planning to toprope you'll need to extend it.

A good climb but not on par with neighboring routes like Split Personality or Rock Candy. Two stars out of five.


Protection 

pro to 1.5" (wires work especially well), bolted anchor/rap (3/8")



Photos of Young Lust Slideshow Add Photo
Sheryl following up Young Lust. The many pro's placed were to showcase the leader's prowess to place pro at will, cruising through even the overhung section, NOT, i repeat, NOT because he was spooked by the crux and inched forward like a big chicken of a cowardly worm, AT ALL!! And the lead line on the far left runs over Euthyphro, the belay end of the rope right of Sheryl dangles over a 5.10b/c TR up the face, and the jagged crack on the right is the top half of Smithereens. 12 Mar 2005
Sheryl following up Young Lust. The many pro's pla...
 Sheryl entering the crux of Young Lust (5.8+).
Sheryl entering the crux of Young Lust (5.8+).
Mike Kurilich
Mike Kurilich
Ron Britton
Ron Britton
Jonny on Young Lust.
Jonny on Young Lust.
Comments on Young Lust Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
May 4, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This climb is straightforward to protect. It has very fun jamming. The Vogel guide rates is 5.9; I agree based on the slightly steep crux section.

By Randy
May 4, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Guide rates it 5.8 and that seems about right.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jun 15, 2009

Wasn't aware of any scarce protection on this route, and trust me, being the chicken I am, I'd know.

By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Apr 4, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

Great fun! Some say 5.8, some say 5.9. I say GOOD TIMES! Crux may put it into the 5.9 range. Beta: don't get suckered into pluggin' gear high and sacrifice great finger locks. Bring a #3 - there's a sweet spot.

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 21, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I think this is my favorite 5.9 route in the entire park. I have probably climbed in 10 or more times and I live 12 hours drive away. Every route on this wall is fantastic but this is the best.

By Canon
Nov 17, 2012

5.8. Great pro, great fun!