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You Only Nest Twice 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Arjun Heimsath
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 136
Submitted By: arjunmh on Nov 25, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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DAS at the anchors. Rope line shows the route.

Description 

Continuing the James Bond naming theme...(i.e. from "You Only Live Twice")
Right leaning wide crack through lower section of broken rock. Climb up from this easy crack into the vertical crack that leads to the top. Careful climbing to avoid the raptor nest on the ledge near top. Some loose rock remains despite extensive climbing, but the protection is solid and the climbing is better than expected. Note that the crux is protected with an added bolt because of the somewhat tricky and small gear used to protect the committing move through the bulge.

Location 

See route map and note the name change.

Protection 

Single bolt protects the thin section that was originally climbed using only C3ís. Cams to #3 with doubles of small stuff.


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DAS approaching the crux.
DAS approaching the crux.

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By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 10, 2014

Finally did this again yesterday and it's nice. Reasonable to do with a single rack to #3, saving the #3 and #2 for up above the bolt rather than in the wide and easy crack below. NOTE that if it weren't for the James Bond theme this would be called "You Only Nest Once" as the nest is on top of a large and loose block. I thought it obvious not to step on or grab the nest and so did not remove either. But, just in case it's not obvious hopefully you read this before climbing this.