You Gotta Kiss a Lot of Frogs
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New route between Blind Man's Bluff and Freddie Prince Jr. A stick clip might be useful for the first bolt as the bolt is kinda high and the rock not that solid.
Climb past the first bolt through a large hueco, hang out clip the second bolt and pull more difficult moves past the third bolt to a large ledge. Many people find clipping the bolt off the ledge difficult and mildly terrifying as it can be difficult to reach. (I was able to reach it but only barely from the ledge). Pull a few more difficult moves past a close bolt and hit the chains.
Has good movement, but still has a lot of loose rock.
Bolts + Chains
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 12, 2009
Looks easier than it is. Expect lots of grit in the pockets. Fun movement going up through each vertical section, but the big ledge in the middle detracts. The 4th bolt (first one after the ledge) is pretty poorly placed IMO, mainly because you have to make a move (or two if you're shorter) to reach the clip and you're clipping off a hold that feels like it's going to break. The route to the left, Blind Man's Bluff, is a much better alternative for folks looks for routes in this locale at this grade.
By Bob Broilo
From: Socorro, NM
Jun 14, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I didn't like this route a few years ago but it seems to have cleaned up a lot. I think it's pretty fun now. Missing some footholds but less sandy/gritty so grade is still about right.