You Don't Know Jack
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Shares the same start as Red Devil (5.12b).
Boulder start (or jump for a jug) underneath the roof, climb huecos until you reach a sloper undercling, From here reach the well-chalked jug and a fingerlock, pull the lip and stand up to a small undercling, reach up to the bigger undercling and then go left to good holds.
This is essentially where you leave Red Devil, moving left entails some strenuous core movement, continue up and left with balancy lieback moves to another fingerlock and twistlock into a good flake, move right to crimpers until you can reach the leftmost sidepull of Red Devil, creep upwards on the occasional good hold and a bunch of nothing to the anchor.
A better route than Red Devil. A bit longer with much better movement, plus you have to do the best/crux moves of both routes.
Left of Espresso in the middle of the roof
4 chain draws, 1 hanger to 2 chains with wiregate carabiners at the anchor.
BETA PHOTO: "You Don't Know Jack".
Photo by Blitzo.
|Comments on You Don't Know Jack
|By Art Morimitsu|
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Dec 21, 2006
Actually, I do know Jack.
Jack SUCKS j/k
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 21, 2010
Fun route, continuously engaging, and certainly better than Red Devil, which, in my opinion, wimps out after the crux. The top brings a balancy bang after the pumpy bottom sections.
By the way, thanks are in order to Jack for putting up with my pestering last Sunday (March 21st) regarding route beta. If you see Jack, thank him for, well, being Jack.