This route climbs the left-leaning cracks on the south-east side of Cannibal Crag. Start in the left-most crack, merge with the second crack and shoot for the top of the boulder. Alternatively, you can traverse left near the top to the cold shuts on Caliban.
|By Mark Allen|
Apr 17, 2007
I did this route with my friend Michelle last week. Excellent beginner lead. A little more difficult than 5.4 at the top but the holds are all there.
|By chris t|
From: cle elum,wa
Oct 22, 2007
Route seemed a little tougher than 5.4, (This was climbed to the top) especially compared to Abbey Rd. Was still fun for my second gear lead!
Apr 4, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Definitely harder than, 5.4. I would say 5.6. I am new to trad, and so far have found every route rated 5.4-5.5 (in Red Rocks) sandbagged. I felt they were all harder.
|By Greg Gibson|
From: Glen Ellen, Ca
Oct 22, 2008
found the route hard to lead but good rock for sandstone.
I love this formation with all the routes on it.
This is a great area to take a noob out to learn to place gear while still being on the deck.
|By dnoB ekiM|
Oct 18, 2009
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
I did this route as my first route in Red Rock as a solo (after soloing regularly in the Peak District in England) when I first moved to Las Vegas in 1997...the top out is the crux. I remember standing there for about 15 minutes...wondering if I would make it. My last solo!
|By Chris D|
From: the couch
Jan 3, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
Handren calls this route "Cannibal Crack"
I agree that it feels like a sandbag, but I think that it's mostly just really awkward. While I like this sort of climb, I wouldn't want to do similar climbs all day. Still, good practice to get in something different.
We stopped at the anchors at the top of Caliban here and were going to TR that route until we saw the anchors. I don't even know what they were...two spinner metal "hooks," both loose, both worn from rope pulls, both wide open at the top. I backed them up with a cam to bring up the second and was a little sketched rapping from them.
|By Jason D. Martin|
Jan 8, 2010
There are two bolts at the top of the formation that can be used to top-rope both Caliban and You Are What You Eat. The cold-shuts should be avoided...
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 20, 2010
On 5/19/10, the LVCLC and the ASCA replaced the anchor bolts on this route and equipped the new anchor with mussy hooks. Both bolts are 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece.
|By Ben Sherwin|
Mar 2, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
Climbed the crack this weekend. It wasn't hard necessarily, but awkward. Second trad lead, took a fall from the lower middle section when a foot slipped, piece held :-). Not as easy to protect as Cover My Buttress on Panty Wall, my first lead. Thus giving it a 5.5. Traversed to the bolts - was a fun couple move traverse.