Yosemite Crack 

This route is already on the site, under Twin Owls (this small rock lies up against Twin Owls). Incidentally, there are no bolts on top, but it is easy to TR off of clean gear.

Is this really 5.9? It seems a lot harder to me.

I thought it seemed pretty tough, but, I tried to lie it back too much on the upper section, and after I felt like I would have suffered less by staying more in the crack... 5.9 seemed about right for the area though. Definitely seemed a grade or so harder that the first part of Wolf's Tooth which is an 8.

No liebacking required - excellent jams the whole way except for the last few widish moves, but those aren't so bad. Getting the feet in where it turns to fists and bulges a little bit was the crux for me.

If this is at, or as in my case beyond, your limit, bring one piece bigger than a 4 Friend - I was sandbagged into leaving the 4 Camalot on the ground, and I was a shaking mess topping out.

I thought it was full credit 5.9 and certainly not the 9- Gillett calls it, but if I can lead it it can't possibly be 5.10

Great climb but a total sandbag. I think this was harder than Dementia at Happy Hour which is a 5.10a. Of the few 5.10s I've led, this is harder than any of them and more strenuous.

I got exhausted and I shamelessly rested on my gear. 5.9 A0 for me. Fortunately we had double cams in big sizes or I never would have made it.

On a weird note, when my buddy did it and I seconded it, I went in my approach shoes and found the foot jams to be easier.

Great jams all the way. Not as hard as other Lumpy 5.9s but still a lot of fun. Used a Camalot #'s 1, 2, and 3.

Booty, did you see that biner about 12 feet back in the crack? :) How the...

Interesting. Kimball rated it 5.8+, Gillett 5.9-, Rossiter 5.9. Jams are good enough, you can stretch your day one more pitch, despite rain. Tape is nice. Allen will tell you, don't layback the sucker, especially in the rain. Jam it!

A #4 Friend will also come in handy, protecting the scrunchy bellyfolppish topout move. -Sloth

Resist the urge to lieback the crack. Good crack technique is all it takes. 1 #2 Camalot, 2 #3 Camalots, 1 #3.5 Camalot, and 1 #4 Camalot will protect the meat of it. Once you bellyflop over the top, a couple mid-size nuts and .5/.75 Camalots will build a nice anchor.

I just did this today. I feel that this is a 5.9. I am not typically that good at fisting, but once it gets that wide the feet get really good so you can almost palm the inside of the crack while you work your feet up or get some sloppy fist jams. This was a good route and [definitely] a good one to practice for wide stuff.

People with small fists like me may end up fore-arm jamming in up to elbows in sections of this one. Slow motion that way, but great climbing.

fun climb. It's short, but the couple moves of offwidth (like Tony, forearm jams for me) had me panting by the top...don't let the perfect jams at the start lull you to sleep. I thought it felt harder than Rooster Tail, but pretty similar in difficulty to other 5.9 offwidth climbs.

It's pretty obvious from the top, but the walk off is to the left, not the right as stated above.

Really? I walked off to the right...(I think?).

I've done this thing on TR a few times, it's freaking hard! At the same time, wish it went on for another few hundred feet!