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Yosemite climbing in December/January
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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Oct 4, 2012
on top of the RNWF June 2012
as long as it isn't storming really bad, how feasible would a route like Zodiac be in that time span? Who has climbed walls in the winter? Positives seem to be that there would be no crowds, and the water load would be much less, negatives would be freezing to death thousands of feet (or 100's, might not get very far) above the ground.

Of course I'd be throwing my bags off the top. East ledges seem like the biggest crux, with snow and all.

Discuss!

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By vincent L.
From Redwood City
Oct 4, 2012
First day of school
I'd hike down the falls trail w/ bags before tossing them...maybe you were just being sarcastic .

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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Oct 4, 2012
on top of the RNWF June 2012
I wasn't serious about being a premeditated tosser, supertopo flew off the handle on throwing bags yesterday.

Basically does it come down to that zodiac would be possible, but only if there isn't a massive storm during that time? Anyone been on the wall during a big winter storm? the east side is pretty overhanging, seems like there'd be a little protection there.

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By J. Albers
From Colorado
Oct 4, 2012
Bucky
Keenan Waeschle wrote:
I wasn't serious about being a premeditated tosser, supertopo flew off the handle on throwing bags yesterday. Basically does it come down to that zodiac would be possible, but only if there isn't a massive storm during that time? Anyone been on the wall during a big winter storm? the east side is pretty overhanging, seems like there'd be a little protection there.


Keenan, if you get caught up on the Captain when a big Pacific storm moves in from the Gulf of Alaska, you are in serious sh*t. We regularly get week long storms that dump many, many feet of sloppy, wet snow in the Sierra. Can you wait it out? Maybe. Will there be substantial ice falling from the rim and updrafts that toss your ledge up and down like a rag doll? Yup. Will you be able to stay dry even with the best gear available? Nope. Will the overhanging nature of Zodiac perhaps provide a bit more shelter than the Nose? Maybe. Will down aiding the overhanging nature of the route be a disaster in a storm like that? Likely.

In short, doing a wall in the winter is indeed completely feasible if the weather is good (and CA does get good weather windows in the winter). However, if you do get slammed, your life is going to suck and depending on your skills and situation, you may end up in a potentially deadly situation and/or you may be yelling for YOSAR. If you don't have a bunch of wall experience, I would think twice.

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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Oct 4, 2012
on top of the RNWF June 2012
I figure as much, it is unlikely I'll be able to swing it this year. I appreciate the info. If the weather is good climbing a wall wouldn't be that bad, no shit.

I'll be in the Valley in May regardless. fingers crossed that it'll be a dry one.

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By Alex McIntyre
From Tucson, AZ
Oct 4, 2012
In the traverse section, double rainbow in the bac...
cheynelempe.blogspot.com/2011/...

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By Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Oct 4, 2012
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
I have known people who've had to bail from the Zodiac when big multiday fall storms have moved in and the shenanigans they had to pull to get off the wall were second to none. Not something that sounded easy, straightfoward, or all that safe either. Something to consider anyway.

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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Oct 4, 2012
on top of the RNWF June 2012


that looks EXTREME.
the descent with all the snow looked gnar, loved the squinty eyed summit 5 hour energy.

oh and re-reading my last post, it seems kinda dickish, I mean't no shit to my own statement, not yours. If the weather is good and it doesn't storm of course it wouldn't be that terrible. I hope no offense was taken.

Looks fun having the whole wall to yourself, but also icefall ripping by 50 feet out from the wall would add to the excitement.

thanks for all the responses. Sounds like I need to do some more aiding in the winter snow, shouldn't be too hard here in MT. I might be able to sucker a roommate into shivering away a night on the portaledge in a month or two, when it gets really cold. I assume the storms in the valley are more like what you get out in Washington. cold and snowy, but not cold enough that everything freezes, so yer wet in 25 degree temps. heinous!

edit: I don't know why the formatting is putting my entire thing into a quote. wazupwiththat?
doubleedit: the ">" signs were fucking up the formatting, added a space and now all crises have been averted.

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By Jon H
From Boulder
Oct 4, 2012
At the matching crux
Keenan Waeschle wrote:
edit: I don't know why the formatting is putting my entire thing into a quote. wazupwiththat?


Add a space between the end of the hyperlink and the beginning of your response, all will be clear.

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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Oct 4, 2012
on top of the RNWF June 2012
I have about 15 spaces. but thanks fer the tip!

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By J. Albers
From Colorado
Oct 4, 2012
Bucky
Keenan,
No offense taken, though to be honest, the first time I read your first comment I did wonder for a second. Thanks for checking though...very polite of you.
As far as your statement being completely inside the "comment", instead of adding spaces, try adding a return.
Cheers.

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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Oct 4, 2012
on top of the RNWF June 2012
J. Albers wrote:
Keenan, No offense taken, though to be honest, the first time I read your first comment I did wonder for a second. Thanks for checking though...very polite of you. As far as your statement being completely inside the "comment", instead of adding spaces, try adding a return. Cheers.



I've been trying a new thing, not being a dick when I post on MP. Some of the stuff on here sends me into a fit of uncontrollable rage, but I always realize afterwards that bashing idiots on the internet is retarded. It could be like Thad Castles "namaste" phase, in that I'll be back to my same old dickish self within a few days. Only time can tell.
youtu.be/_99SOnpWK2U

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By Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Oct 4, 2012
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA...
Keenan Waeschle wrote:
oh and re-reading my last post, it seems kinda dickish,


That's never bothered you before, pretty much all of your posts are dickish.

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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Oct 4, 2012
on top of the RNWF June 2012
Glenn Schuler wrote:
That's never bothered you before, pretty much all of your posts are dickish.


hey asshole, scroll up about 3 inches and read. What did I just say? Shut the fuck up.

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By Jacob Krenn
Oct 4, 2012
Jacob Krenn working his way up the Incredible Hulk...
Personally, I say psyche is psyche!!!! If you feel confident and motivated/prepared, then go for it! Yosemite history has been driven on psyche! From the Golden Age to Cheyne's and friends Z.M. winter ascent and everything
In between it's been about motivation, commitment, and personal psyche! If you feel your ready then go do it! If you doubt it for a second then realize your doubt and bail! It's a personal decision of commitment!

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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Oct 4, 2012
on top of the RNWF June 2012
psyche won't help me if I'm encased in 3 feet of ice though ;)

I'm super psyched for next may, I have some goals that are way over my head but I figure I can just go for it and worst case I'll bail with my tail in between my legs.

Going during winter break would be sick because I could try and do some of those goals in 3 months instead of 7.

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By J. Albers
From Colorado
Oct 5, 2012
Bucky
Jacob Krenn wrote:
Personally, I say psyche is psyche!!!! If you feel confident and motivated/prepared, then go for it! Yosemite history has been driven on psyche! From the Golden Age to Cheyne's and friends Z.M. winter ascent and everything In between it's been about motivation, commitment, and personal psyche! If you feel your ready then go do it! If you doubt it for a second then realize your doubt and bail! It's a personal decision of commitment!


Knowing the difference between psyche, prudence, and stupidity is called maturity. And if you don't know the difference, then you may end up putting YOSAR folks at risk because you made a stupid choice. All the commitment in the world won't stop you from freezing to death on a portaledge encased in ice. Don't think it happens? Read the AAJ accident reports.

I'm not trying to discourage anyone from getting after it, but saying that winter or alpine climbing is simply about having enough psyche and commitment makes you sound like you lack the capacity to make wise choices.

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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Oct 5, 2012
on top of the RNWF June 2012
this guy was psyched


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By vincent L.
From Redwood City
Oct 5, 2012
First day of school
I'm always trying to be more positive too . Be careful, and it helps if you have a smartphone and someone who can feed you a weather forecast from the ground perhaps... Good Luck

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By Jacob Krenn
Oct 5, 2012
Jacob Krenn working his way up the Incredible Hulk...
I agree with you J. Albers and as I said the climbers personal knowledge or confidence in those conditions would play a huge factor in ones decision. Climbing in safer conditions is clearly the best choice... no one wants to die. I surely wouldn't choose to climb big walls in winter conditions but I'm aware of people that choose to seek that kind of risk and adventure. If that's what their after than so be it, although hopefully only if their well prepared and not putting others lives at risk besides their own. I realize my original post came across as ignorant and may have been the result of too much whiskey and a bad head.

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By splitclimber
Oct 5, 2012
if this season is a repeat of last season here, there was great weather through December with no snow or ice up top (assummed).

I saw a couple teams doing the Nose in December.

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