Yosemite Arete V4-5
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Justin Guarino on 'Yosemite Arete' v4
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Description There is never chalk on this one. Maybe because it's quite tall. Fortunately, the crux is down low. Start on the left side of the arete and slap up on technical ground with a few reachy moves and small feet. Scary moves at a crack/corner lead to a horizontal crack already high off the deck. Then make a great traverse left in the do-not-fall zone to the path of least resistance to the top (summit). Downclimb cracks and chimneys on a different side.
Location The big boulder close by Kalbro
Protection Pad - downclimbing ability
rob on the arete, lily and josh look on...
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lily crimping on the yosemite arete
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| Comments on Yosemite Arete |
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By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Apr 2, 2008
rating: V5
| I had to climb this one with a brush in my mouth just to clean off the sloper before the crux move. The move can be friction dependent. |
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 22, 2009
rating: V4
| I may be thinking of a different problem, but I didn't thihnk that this problem was hard, just tall and scary. It's on the backside of the Yo boulder like you're heading towards Kalbro. It's the really tall arete that follows a crack system up to the big horizontal breaK? |
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 22, 2009
| i believe your right nhclimber... and i would agree that it doesnt look too hard but i would much rather not risk that fall haha |
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 23, 2009
rating: V4
| I got sandbagged into climbing it and had no interest in trying the fall. |
By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Sep 26, 2010
rating: V4
| great climbing but f*ck that sloper, you don't need it. Also, if you get thru the crux there's really no chance of falling up high |
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