||Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
|Original: || YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||James Garrett, Julia ("Yogini") Geisler, Charlie Sturgis, and Blake Summers. 18 June 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||When Dry|
|Page Views: ||460|
|Submitted By: ||James Garrett on Jun 18, 2009|
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Yoga Retreat on Ubud Wall
A meditative, yet fun trad climb! Start to the right of the small bush which is to the right of the start for Ubud. Following the dihedral would be possible all on gear, but beware of potentially unstable rock in some sections.
Pitch #1: Climb up a lower broken up section and trend right to a bolt which steers the climb away from the dihedral somewhat. Finger and hand cracks abound between bolt protection. A nice final move through a fun roof leads to a 2 bolt belay. 5.7, 35m.
Rappel the route.
Looking up from the trail, find the Ubud Wall and hike 5 additional minutes up a stable boulder field. Yoga Retreat starts climbing up the Ubud Wall just to the right (west) of the route Ubud, goes up to the right of an obvious right facing dihedral and through the roof to the top of the wall.
QDs for 5 bolts and Set of Camalots from #0.25 - #3. Nuts are optional. 70m rope recommended.
During the FA on a great day with wonderful people...