|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 40'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|FA:||Valerie Bachinsky, Kevin Heckeler|
|Submitted By:||Kevin Heckeler on May 7, 2012|
|Comments on Yodellaybackloon||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 7, 2012
There is some debate as to the difficulty of the climb. The consensus is a softer 5.6 (5.6- minus if that grade were available).
Great new way to get to the top of Oddy's to setup a top rope instead of the manky walkup climber's left. Only drawback is the need for larger cams. And that it's not 100 feet long, cause it's fun!
By Jay Harrison
May 16, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ra & I climbed this 12th May. Think it's safe to say 5.6-, but definitely wants a #5 cam near the top. I used my BigBro, which was very awkward to place and wouldn't have held a fall where I finally left it. Slinging the chockstone is an alternative, but that would be very difficult, you would have to pull into an offwidth body jam to do so.
Too bad that upper slab doesn't go easier, the extra 20' of climbing would be nice.
For leaders: place a #1 Camalot in the crack below the overhang directly above the corner when belaying from the Oddy's ledge. Otherwise, if your follower falls after pulling the last pc. from the corner below, it will pull rope and possibly belayer across the edge and out onto the main face.
Excellent addition to Crane's route list. Kudos to Val for the incredible effort.