Yo Yo Pinnacle
||Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Dave Baker, Marti Woerner, Scott Williams, Mark Axen, Kem Johnson, 1975|
|Page Views: ||1,526|
|Submitted By: ||climber pat on Jul 19, 2009|
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This is a full-on trad route and will provide an adventure for the sport climber.
Pitch 1. climb the top of the pinnacle. Traversing left out of the chimney on to the face is probably nicer.
Pitch 2. Climb through the left overhang.
Pitch 3. Follow the weakness to the top. This pitch could be considered R as the runouts are quite long but the climbing is easier.
See squeezing the lemon, pg 306, 307.
To get down, 4th class to the top of the fortress and then walk off to the trail.
There are not any bolts on this route to guide you. I used camalots to 0.5-4, smallish TCUs, 0.5-2 Tricams and medium nuts.