|Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life
This is an enjoyable single pitch (80 - 100 feet) route that follows a line on the west side of the Entry Way Slabs formation immediately North of Buick Rocks. From the Buick Rocks turn-out, scramble approximately 50 feet to the northeast until you reach the west side of the Entry Way Slabs formation. The route begins approximately 10 feet to the right of the large boulder that lies next to the east side of the road. Climb up this face and traverse to the base of the shallow dihedral. Follow the dihedral to the base of the obvious steep dihedral split by a 6" - 8" crack (crux). Jam or layback for approximately 20 feet to the belay stance.
Descent is a walk-off down and to the east until you reach the first Buick Rocks formation and follow the obvious trail back to the turn-out.
Cams or stoppers up to approximately 2" up to the base of the crux corner then large hexes or cams up to 6" - 8" to protect the dihedral.
|By Dan Howell|
From: Northglenn, CO
Feb 6, 2010
Decent climb though still a bit dirty. #5 Camalot works perfect up high.