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YMCA Right Variation 

YMCA Right Variation 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
FA: ??
Page Views: 243
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Oct 11, 2003
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This crack forms a big Y in the southside cracks area of the Dome. The left crack is is a thin hand crack/layback. The right crack is wider, and has some good jams.

The first section starts out in a short, wide-ish crack leading up to a ledge just below a triangle shaped roof. It is likely that you could continue through this ledge in one pitch, but, I stopped here for a closer belay. From here, climb up a bushy dihedral for about 20 foot, then take your choice of directions for the roof. Going right, I found some hand jams, and good pro. Top out through some ledges, and a short wide section in the corner. The crux section is fun with some good exposure. The rest of the climb has some fun moves, but, it has it's share of bushes, and loose rock.

There is a good decent to the climbers right from the top. Scramble down the gully for about 40 feet towards some big chockstones at the top of a chimney. There is a slung chockstone here with rap rings. One-rope rappel to the base of the climbs.


Standard rack, maybe a couple extra in the medium-hand size. A 4 camalot protects the crux well, and there is a good yellow alien placement after the roof.

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