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Yin and Yang Cliff

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Yin and Yang Cliff 


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Page Views: 44,391
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: AJ on Mar 30, 2004
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Flailing on Yin Yang

Description 

This miniature (35') crag has two nice cracks. The routes get morning sun and afternoon shade.


Getting There 

Follow a trail around the left side of Kraft Mtn. After 20 minutes you will reach a distinct notch; the crag is 100 yards further on the right.


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Yin and Yang Cliff:
Bigwank   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 20'   
Atman   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Shortwank   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 25'   
Yin and Yang   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Yin and Yang Cliff

Featured Route For Yin and Yang Cliff
Deanna getting ready to fire the crux! <br />Armando Lee Photo

Yin and Yang 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b  NV : Red Rock : ... : Yin and Yang Cliff
The left wall has this curvy thin hands crack. Take some thin gear for the last moves. Like its neighbor, a sweet miniature route....[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of Yin and Yang Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
A print quality letter regarding the Atman bolting situation.  The entire thread can be found under forums on this site.
A print quality letter regarding the Atman bolting...
Comments on Yin and Yang Cliff Add Comment
Show which comments
By 10b4me
Mar 31, 2004

Although the two climbs here are good, they're not really worth the hike, especially if you've ever climbed in IC.

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Apr 28, 2005

Not really sure why you'd say that...it's a 15 minute, easy hike......

By beny
Jan 28, 2007

Some more info: as of Jan 07, almost all of the routes at this formation have anchors. The only exceptions would be the two wide cracks on the west side (.9, .11). Also, theres a sport route just right of Atman that checks in about .11-. Beware, the bolts are glue-ins and it looks like someomes first attempt with them.

By Jason D. Martin
Feb 18, 2007

Was up at Yin Yang today... I don't know who put in the glue-ins but they look a little sketchy. There are globs of phlem yellow glue hanging out of the bolt holes. There is no doubt in my mind that this was someone's first attempt at glue-ins. Too bad they had to experiment at such a nice little area.

I'd suggest backing up these bolts for awhile until we see whether the installer knew what he was doing or not...

Jason

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Mar 7, 2007

This cliff has recieved an unneccessary "makeover" recently. I counted fourteen bolts on this cliff a couple of months ago, and this is before the lead bolts went in on the "sport routes". These were existing, already established toprope routes with solid, accessible gear anchors. The idea was that anyone climbing at this cliff had gear with them, as this is a traditional, bolt-free trad cliff. Someone decided to change that, I'm sure in some kind of public service oriented spirit, but seeing a botched, sticking 2/3 out glue in three inches from the crack I've plugged cams into for two years, on a 30' cliff with a one minute walkoff, just sickens me. It's not progress, the word from the rangers is that it's totally illegal to bolt on that cliff, and my feeling on it is that the sooner those things make their way to join disco in the dustbin of history, the better. If you chop these botched bolts, let me know and I'll buy the beers at Tenaya Creek to celebrate. If I had the gear to do it correctly myself, they'd already be gone. Hatemail and/or support to Killischoward@hotmail.com.

By Jason D. Martin
Mar 8, 2007

The bolts have been removed. See the anonymous letter submitted by Todd.

Jason

By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Apr 22, 2009

Thanks for chopping them and cleaning them up! I did Ying and Yang saturday and we didn't see evidence leftover... Good work!

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Mar 24, 2011

The best parking area to get to Yin and Yang cliff is the one at the very end of Sandstone Drive, and from there, it really is a 15 minute hike.

By Gregory Climber
Oct 17, 2013

Thanks to LVCLC volunteers, the old chop job at this cliff no longer has grey glue evidence. The glue was removed in an attempt to camouflage the old illegal bolt holes. The holes were then filled and red sand/rock placed on top. It looks a lot better than it did. Thanks for the donated time gentlemen!