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Start in a left facing corner directly to the right of New Yosemite and work your way up to the first horizontal and build a life nest. From there it seems that there are two different options. Head directly up using a sloping two finger pocket and a heel hook and then traverse right to the second horizontal. Or from the first horizontal stay low and traverse over to some small crimps and slowing edges. Make big move to small holds and traverse in right to the second horizontals. The first way is better protected, however the guidebook says go right, which puts you in a pretty bad place if you botch the moves to the second horizontal. Clear as mud?
Load up the second horizontal with tcus and smear those feet high for a big move utilizing a bad pinch. Move out of that sequence, clip the bolt and finish up easy terrain.
The left facing corner directly to the right of New Yosemite.
There are two horizontals that protect all of the busines and those will eat yellow - red tcus. After the second horizontal there is a bolt to protect the upper moves, not that they are any harder than 5.8. Anchors at the top.
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Feb 25, 2013
I have also heard rumor of people skipping the pinch move and being able to grab an undercling and throw themselves to the crimps.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Mar 16, 2014
Great pitch of hard, gear protected face-climbing, and other than getting to the first horizontal (maybe one 10+/11- move), it is fairly safe. I do take issue with the Honourable Mr. Whisenhunt, Esq, that the moves after the bolt are "only 5.8." There is one final pop/throw with bad feet that could definitely be a heartbreaker on redpoint.