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Mooner leading through the beginning of the crux.
|Private Property - recently CLOSED TO CLIMBING and all public access. MORE INFO >>>|
A steep, exciting, beautiful line involving nice patina and a sustained section of stemming, this out of the way climb is not to be missed, though my impression is that it rarely makes it on to climbers' agendas because of the approach (which is not bad at all). It would be great to hit this on a busy day when all the roadside classics have lines. Combining it with White Lightning on your way in or out makes for an epic afternoon. Skinner's Roof is also on the approach in.
Start in somewhat of a corner on the right end of the formation, and then after 15 feet or so traverse left into a long stemming section. Keep towards the left as you get to the top, staying on the left side of the protruding diving board above.
The route is somewhere in the range of 100-110 feet. Top roping is not advised due to the poor position of the single-bolt anchor relative to the top-out of the route.
Be careful pulling your rope. The way the single bolt anchor is positioned on top of the formation makes it incredibly easy to get your rope pinched and cemented in. When we arrived at the route there was a rope hanging down the line that looked pretty haggard and wouldn't pull from the bottom.
On the easterly aspect of Yellow Wall, about a mile in from the parking lot on the south end of the Twin Sisters.
We used a set of doubles from #3 down, only placed 1 #3 towards the top of the route. Placed a nut or two as well, but mainly cams. A lot of smaller gear, .75 on down. Had a set of small cams which was very useful.
photo: Mooner A more comprehensive shot of the ro...
Lots of good stemming on this route.
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Aug 2, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This is a fantastic route that probably sees little traffic. It gets shade in the late afternoon. The hike isn't too bad. I used mostly small cams and plenty of stoppers. In 2011 there was a fixed stopper about half-way up.
For the descent, we weren't sure if our 60 meter rope would reach the ground so we did a short rappel to the SE(?) to another set of visible anchors, and a second rappel to the ground.
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Sep 2, 2013
A great line. Could really use some fixed anchors for descent and to TR the 5.11 to the left.