|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 55'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Randy Marsh, 1993|
|Submitted By:||mike moore on Aug 1, 2009|
|Mount Charleston Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Yellow Pine||Add Comment|
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From: Las Vegas
Aug 17, 2015
|Climbed this w/ Austin Ely 08-16-2015. First, excellent climb. Great movements, fun combination of power moves pulling the bulge at the start, and balancy-technical moves up the blank slab with thin hands and feet. Top it off with a great fear factor towards the top on sharp limestone (can you say "cheese-grated"?). Second, beware of a loose block. As you approach the bulge (about 20' up), there are two "blocks" with great hands/jugs. These are the first big jugs you get to as you're about to pull the bulge. The smaller of the two blocks, which is to the climber's right, should be avoided. I thought it moved when I pulled on it, and Austin confirmed this when he climbed it--he stepped on it, felt it move, and heard it creek. We didn't have chunks of chalk to mark it with an X. WHEN CLIMBING, AVOID THE BLOCK TO THE RIGHT. Instead, reach up a wee bit higher and land the one on the left. Belayers will be wise to stand to the left of this block. It's big, so if (when?) it comes off, you don't want to be standing under it. Third and last, we agreed the .10b rating is sandbagged. While we are aware of those who maintain Red Rock and Mount C. ratings are soft compared to other climbing areas (a topic for separate discussion), we believe this climb is certainly a .10c, perhaps a .10d. We mean no disrespect to others who have rated this climb otherwise; we know and respect these climbers. Our objective is solely to make a contribution to the climbing community. Climb safely and have fun.|
By Sandy Crimp
Aug 18, 2015
Did you know that you can input your opinion on the rating above under: "Your Rating"?
It is not uncommon to have differing views on ratings. 10B or 10C is pretty close... If you continue to climb,you are going to find LOTS of routes that you think are a letter or two off.
On a side note:
While Red Rocks is frequently discussed as "soft". I have never heard a credible/experienced climber suggest that Mt. Charleston ratings are anything less that stiff/solid/old-school.