Yellow Matter Custard 5.13a
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| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.13a [details] |
| FA: | Jason Stern, 1988 |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Mar 29, 2009 |
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Yellow Matter Custard fittingly follows the yellow...
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Description Yellow Matter Custard is yet another perfect sport route on Sundown's Main Cliff. While Yellow Matter Custard retains a reputation for fingery, sharp climbing, the route still requires more than just finger strength. All of those crimps lead to a pretty sizable pump, and the redpoint crux might be managing whatever fatigue you sustained on the lower, crimpy crux.
Start just left of the popular Romper Room, and climb up a series of stacked blocks. Pre-clipping the first bolt is a good idea. At the first bolt, the rock changes to the best Sundown has to offer: fine grained with crisp, good edges. From here, the climb follows a shallow groove with increasingly hard moves that culminate with a sequential crux. The crux ends with a big lock off to a perfect rail.
The climbing to the anchor, while definitely heroic in feel, keeps the send in question until the final moment. It amazes me that this climb was bolted and sent in the 1980's. Despite the lycra tights and the high-top boots, those guys knew a good sport route when they saw one.
Location Just left of Romper Room, on the left side of its namesake Yellow Matter Buttress.
Protection Bolts. The route was upgraded recently and all the bolts are new.
Mark on Yellow Matter Custard. 5.13a. www.bagleyhe...
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| Comments on Yellow Matter Custard |
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By chris deulen
May 30, 2009
| Does the end of this route shoot off to the huge flake to the right and then back to the slopy jug just below the anchors? |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 31, 2009
| Yes, you go out to the flake. To clip the anchors, there is an excellent hidden bucket. |
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Aug 20, 2009
| Climbers on this route may find a medium-sized stopper or Friend useful for the last 15 feet or so on the flake. The yellow line in the photo goes a bit too far left at the top IMO but anyone climbing this will realize the right way to go. Both this and Pastryworks can be readily inspected by climbing Frigid Relations which I believe joins Pastry Works' final flake. You can also slide over from the top of Romper Room.
There is also a more direct finish to YMC called the Big Pickle. |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 20, 2009
| Peter, I have been wondering about the gear needed for the flake. The Webster guide makes reference to it as well. I didn't see a need for gear up there and I'm not that bold. My hunch is that the anchors have been lowered. Basically you go to the flake, make one or two moves, and then you clip the anchors. No real need for gear.
Does The Big Pickle link YMC to Pastryworks? I've seen the lone bolt between those routes, but I don't really understand it. |
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Aug 20, 2009
| I remember the anchor being over the lip but that was in the early 90s so things may have changed since then. I think the Big Pickle does what you describe but I was never interested so I have no firsthand knowledge. |
By bayard russell jr
From: Madison, NH
May 9, 2011
| I moved the anchor to more logical place above the flake. The old anchor's studs are still there, so if someone strongly prefers the old location it can be easlily moved back. It never made any sense to me why it was where it was, the natural line is finishing up the flake, ending on good holds at the end of the difficulties. Before you would either have to do a contrived move away from the flake, or, clip the anchor at your calf. Apparently they used to climb the flake and take a right it an anchor on Romper Room that since been moved, hence the need for a cam. Check it out, let me know..
Ed Webster says the Big Pickle moves left from YMC into Pastryworks. |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 9, 2011
| Bayard, do you need gear now? Where the anchors were before, you didn't need gear. |
By bayard russell jr
From: Madison, NH
May 10, 2011
| No not at all, doesn't change that aspect of the route. This just puts the anchor where most climbers went anyway.
Anyway, check it out sometime. If you really don't like it can go away, and no one will be able to tell it was ever there. It also works better for Frigid relations. |
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