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Yellowknife Buttress
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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 99'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Shimberg 1992
Page Views: 964
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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A long fairly sustained crimpy route lacking a real crux move, more endurance based. Mostly technical foot work intensive climbing with a few nice rests hear and there.... Being less than vertical and 100 feet long its not your usual Rumney 5.10

The first few moves are typically wet and mossy.Follow slippery cracks and face holds and eventually gain a tricky corner which I found to be the crux. Stemming and crimping your way through this will get you to a small ledge. More crimping and some interesting moves past a loose flake (be careful) gain another nice ledge and the final slab. The upper slab was my favorite part of this one. It climbed more like a Cathedral Ledge 5.10 than a Rumney one and I thought it provided nice variety.


There are two distinct sections at Yellowknife Buttress: the front (steep) side and the gully routes on the right (less steep). This is the first of the gully routes as you head right around the corner from the steep side. Look for the wetness and or a dead tree that you may or may not decide to grab if it's wet.


15 bolts to anchor. 60 meter rope needed.

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By tscupp
From: Cincinnati, OH
Oct 2, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The description covers it very well, but this was the most fun I had on a Rumney route in quite a while. A bit of a Sport Climbing adventure from the mossy wet start, followed by the "loose flake" that you think the guidebook is referring to and then the REALLY loose flake. The upper third is pretty awesome and would be extremely popular if the rest of the route climbed so well with some great edges and no chalk giving that true onsight feel.

Highly recommend bringing a few long draws in the middle as the bolts zig-zag and can make some significant drag for the last few bolts. Really a good time for a change of pace at rumney, but be prepared for some mild sketchiness as mentioned.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 2, 2011

glad you like the description and really happy you climbed the route! this cliff gets so little love for how fun it is and its just 2 minutes from hinterlands where people are waiting in line for routes at the same grades...
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Sep 28, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This would be busy all the time if it was at a lower crag.
Some bolts are really rusted and would need to be replaced.
The 7th bolt is so far right that I tought it belonged to the next route over. Bad rope drag...
I will be back for this one fore sure and will spend some time cleaning the bottom part.
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