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A long fairly sustained crimpy route lacking a real crux move, more endurance based. Mostly technical foot work intensive climbing with a few nice rests hear and there.... Being less than vertical and 100 feet long its not your usual Rumney 5.10
The first few moves are typically wet and mossy.Follow slippery cracks and face holds and eventually gain a tricky corner which I found to be the crux. Stemming and crimping your way through this will get you to a small ledge. More crimping and some interesting moves past a loose flake (be careful) gain another nice ledge and the final slab. The upper slab was my favorite part of this one. It climbed more like a Cathedral Ledge 5.10 than a Rumney one and I thought it provided nice variety.
There are two distinct sections at Yellow Knife Buttress: the front (steep) side and the gully routes on the right (less steep). This is the first of the gully routes as you head right around the corner from the steep side. Look for the wetness and or a dead tree that you may or may not decide to grab if it's wet.
15 bolts to anchor. 60 meter rope needed.
From: Cincinnati, OH
Oct 2, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
The description covers it very well, but this was the most fun I had on a Rumney route in quite a while. A bit of a Sport Climbing adventure from the mossy wet start, followed by the "loose flake" that you think the guidebook is referring to and then the REALLY loose flake. The upper third is pretty awesome and would be extremely popular if the rest of the route climbed so well with some great edges and no chalk giving that true onsight feel.
Highly recommend bringing a few long draws in the middle as the bolts zig-zag and can make some significant drag for the last few bolts. Really a good time for a change of pace at rumney, but be prepared for some mild sketchiness as mentioned.
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 2, 2011
glad you like the description and really happy you climbed the route! this cliff gets so little love for how fun it is and its just 2 minutes from hinterlands where people are waiting in line for routes at the same grades...