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Yellow Knife Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abbey Normal S 
Alaskan Arches S 
Aurora Borealis S 
Bridge to Nowhere S 
Cannery Row S 
Chimney Sweeps T 
Cow Patty S 
Gifts From Attu S 
Lone Ranger T 
Lone Wolf T 
Mosquito S 
Nanook of the North S 
Old Yeller T 
Yellow Knife S 
Yukon Cornelius S 

Yellow Knife Buttress  


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Page Views: 7,174
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 25, 2007
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Description 

Yellow Knife is an out of the way crag that sees so little traffic that the holds normally don't even have chalk on them.Wow.Very un-Rumney-like.

All the routes here are between 5.10a and 5.11d. Some are very long by Rumney standards, requiring a two rope rappel, but most times a 60 meter rope will get you back to the ground. Another non-Rumney aspect of this cliff is that the majority of the climbing is less than vertical and more like what you might expect to find on the south buttress of Whitehorse, with crimpy technical face climbing. The front of the cliff is about dead vertical for the most part and is home to a couple killer 5.11s including Alaskan Arches(5.11d).along the gully to the right is the more slabby climbing with a few 10s and 11s.
Most areas at Rumney that have high concentration of 5.10s and 5.11s tend to be crowded, but if you want to escape the Rumney rat-race, spend a day this beautiful area, enjoying shade, quiet, perfect rock and long quality technical routes.

Getting There 

Follow directions to the Hinterlands and continue left under the gully and you will find it.Or follow directions to Prudential, and it's the next cliff right of that.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.0 miles from here

15 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',7],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Yellow Knife Buttress:
Cow Patty   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Abbey Normal   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Yellow Knife   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 99'   
Cannery Row   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Alaskan Arches   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Yellow Knife Buttress

Featured Route For Yellow Knife Buttress
an interesting line...

Alaskan Arches 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  NH : Rumney : Yellow Knife Buttress
Climb the corner laying it back till you can gain good stemming this is a tricky section that is tough to onsight. You will gain a nice rest as the arch leans left.reach right to clip a bolt and make a reachy (or thin) move right out of the overlap. Technical Climbing will get you out right to a corner and another rest. Climb the corner using a fingerlock and a few awkward holds. Mantel the ledge and clip the quick clips to the left.I give the climb 4 stars due to its beautiful flow and interest...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Yellow Knife Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Seriously this is one of the most under rated cliffs around... I would imagine that a big reason its under used is that people dont know whats there... This overhead map should help...
BETA PHOTO: Seriously this is one of the most under rated clif...
Ernie Hansche (dad) on Cow Patty
Ernie Hansche (dad) on Cow Patty
There have been some new additions to the right end of yellow knife... ive heard of a few people looking for cow patty and ending up lost... this diagram shows the basic idea so you might avoid this fate...
BETA PHOTO: There have been some new additions to the right en...
looking down on the west side of yellow knife from summit crag... most of the climbing is on the other side but its such a cool piece of rock i wanted to post it... <br />
looking down on the west side of yellow knife from...

Comments on Yellow Knife Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 28, 2008
I've now climbed all of the routes at Yellowknife and I can say for sure that if you like technical face climbing in the 5.10-5.11 range you might want to make a trip out here...
By Will Cornell
May 27, 2014
this crag looks dope. I'm definitely going to have to check it out.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Oct 6, 2014
This crag should see more action but I understand why people don't go.
Yellowknife needs a big revival. I mean a group effort that could transform this crag and bring climbers of the 5.10 - 5.11 level up higher and free up the lower crags.
Here is what would need to be done:
1-a good scrub of each route
2-replace some of the really rusted bolts
3-build a few platforms for belayers (maybe 3)
4-improve the connection trail from Prudential
5-make a big announcement of a big refresh
The trail from Northwest to Prudentiel is so nice that the walk from the parking lot is really not bad.
If some people ever want to join a group effort, let me know, I will come down from Montreal to help.
By S. Neoh
Oct 8, 2014
First, I have to admit I've not climbed the .11 routes here. I've only been on the .10 routes. They are all OK to quite good, though I thought after a couple, the moves became a little repetitive and I developed sore tips from small holds on mostly less-than-vertical rock. Length of the routes here is a definite plus but I would not go so far as to say "perfect rock", even when the routes are clean.
No question, YK a worthwhile destination!
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Oct 8, 2014
Soon, you have to go try Yukon Cornelius. Read Lee's description. It is so accurate to what you will experiment! It's a long one...
By S. Neoh
Oct 8, 2014
I dunno, Eric. Nanook and Alaskan Arches sound more appealing to me. :)
There is so much to do up in this neck of the woods. Just amazing.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 10, 2014
My 2 cents: I have climbed everything at Yellow Knife and added 3 routes of my own here... I really like the style of climbing up there, the low angle stuff, long routes and even some slightly inverted crimpy sections... It never made sense to me that there were crowds waiting in line at the hinterlands and there was literally NO ONE 2 minutes up the trail at this amazing crag... with a little trail work it could be very good, with a lot of trail work it could be great :)
By S. Neoh
Oct 10, 2014
When Jolt and Dolt were still "up", Hinterlands can be crazily busy. I went up there once after Jolt came down and we had everything but Giant Man to ourselves, on a nice weekend to boot! In fact, the Pru was busier. I bet YK was empty or practically empty that day.