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Green Phantom Rock
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Phantom Staircase Left TR 
Phantom Staircase Middle TR 
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Power Struggle T 
Roccocater S 
Undercling Thing T 
Unknown Phantom, The T 
Yellow Jacket S 

Yellow Jacket 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 831
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Oct 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Joe, on the face, checking out the upcoming thin m...

Description 

Yellow Jacket is found about in the middle of the cliff and is the quite obvious smooth face starting about 15' off the ground. The three bolts are easily visible. It is not the larger smooth face seen further left which has 3 routes (5.8,9, and 10) which are toprope only. Clipping the first bolt requires care and getting to and clipping the third bolt is definitely the crux. A very fun route!

Protection 

Three bolts to 2 bolt anchor adequately protects this route although clipping the first bolt requires a 5.6 move or so and you are up about 15-20' off the ground.


Photos of Yellow Jacket Slideshow Add Photo
Paul contemplating the little move to get to the first bolt.  You are about 15' up here and have to do a smear and high step to where his hand is.  Good thing is it's only 5.6 or so...
Paul contemplating the little move to get to the f...
Once on the face, the climbing gets fun!  Very thin moves to the third bolt which can be seen above.
Once on the face, the climbing gets fun! Very thi...
Now the fun begins.  Moves get thinner and thinner as you move up.  The last 5 feet the climbing eases off...
Now the fun begins. Moves get thinner and thinner...

Comments on Yellow Jacket Add Comment
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By Alex Curtis
From: Rexburg, ID
Jul 30, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I would rate this route a 5.9+ or 5.10a. It is fairly slanted, and although the holds are tough, it isn't as bad as some of the other climbs on this rock which are rated lower. The route is a scramble up to the slanted rock which made this climb about 45 or 50 feet. Do not climb on the left side of this rock, well you could but that is not the route. Climbing on this side by the crack on the right will make this about a 5.7 or 5.8
By Taylor Christensen
Sep 1, 2008

agreed... hand holds are tough, but you can dig in with your feet and let your legs do most the work.
By live_it
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Oct 10, 2009

I led this route and thought it was about 5.8 when you climb more toward the corner.
By LifeIsGood
May 15, 2010

Interesting to read what others have said.

This was one of my early leads - certainly early face/slab climbing. I started on the right of the bolt line and {who knows why} ended up moving to the left of the line.

I did not find this to be an easy 5.7 or even 5.9, but maybe that is a reflection of my (lack of) experience at the time. I'd be interested to climb this again, several years later, and see what I think.

Something to keep in mind, for early leaders.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Aug 24, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I always called this climb 10a or 10b by staying on the true arete. Unexperienced leaders should be careful getting to the first bolt. A fall before then could be bad since you scramble up a bit to start the climb.
By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Jun 13, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a fun little climb, but is not a 10+. This was among my first ten or twenty leads, and even then I didn't find it very committing despite the high first bolt. I have repeated it several times over the years and comparing it to other similar routes in the Carville guide I think it was just a typo that wasn't corrected. It can't be harder than an 8/8+ climbing straight up past the bolts. But you could definately make it harder working left on the licheny arete or easier going right to the gully. The climbing is easy to the first bolt, and well protected after that. An easy 5.10 tick if you own the right guide book.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
May 13, 2013

I almost feel like I did a different route than the others here. I found the climbing to be mid-ten for sure. Perhaps this is a reflection of being on the couch all winter, or the fact that I rarely do any slab routes. Get on it and let us know what YOU think.