Yellow Jacket 5.10+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Paul Rezucha on Oct 1, 2005 |
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Paul contemplating the little move to get to the f...
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Description Yellow Jacket is found about in the middle of the cliff and is the quite obvious smooth face starting about 15' off the ground. The three bolts are easily visible. It is not the larger smooth face seen further left which has 3 routes (5.8,9, and 10) which are toprope only. Clipping the first bolt requires care and getting to and clipping the third bolt is definitely the crux. A very fun route!
Protection Three bolts to 2 bolt anchor adequately protects this route although clipping the first bolt requires a 5.6 move or so and you are up about 15-20' off the ground.
Once on the face, the climbing gets fun! Very thi...
| Joe, on the face, checking out the upcoming thin m...
| Now the fun begins. Moves get thinner and thinner...
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| Comments on Yellow Jacket |
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By Alex Curtis From: Rexburg, ID Jul 30, 2008 rating: 5.10a
| I would rate this route a 5.9+ or 5.10a. It is fairly slanted, and although the holds are tough, it isn't as bad as some of the other climbs on this rock which are rated lower. The route is a scramble up to the slanted rock which made this climb about 45 or 50 feet. Do not climb on the left side of this rock, well you could but that is not the route. Climbing on this side by the crack on the right will make this about a 5.7 or 5.8 |
By Taylor Christensen Sep 1, 2008
| agreed... hand holds are tough, but you can dig in with your feet and let your legs do most the work. |
By live_it From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca Oct 10, 2009
| I led this route and thought it was about 5.8 when you climb more toward the corner. |
By LifeIsGood May 15, 2010
| Interesting to read what others have said. This was one of my early leads - certainly early face/slab climbing. I started on the right of the bolt line and {who knows why} ended up moving to the left of the line. I did not find this to be an easy 5.7 or even 5.9, but maybe that is a reflection of my (lack of) experience at the time. I'd be interested to climb this again, several years later, and see what I think. Something to keep in mind, for early leaders. |
By Josh Cameron Aug 24, 2011 rating: 5.10b
| I always called this climb 10a or 10b by staying on the true arete. Unexperienced leaders should be careful getting to the first bolt. A fall before then could be bad since you scramble up a bit to start the climb. |
By mattymck From: Rocklin, Ca Jun 13, 2012 rating: 5.8+
| This is a fun little climb, but is not a 10+. This was among my first ten or twenty leads, and even then I didn't find it very committing despite the high first bolt. I have repeated it several times over the years and comparing it to other similar routes in the Carville guide I think it was just a typo that wasn't corrected. It can't be harder than an 8/8+ climbing straight up past the bolts. But you could definately make it harder working left on the licheny arete or easier going right to the gully. The climbing is easy to the first bolt, and well protected after that. An easy 5.10 tick if you own the right guide book. |
By DJ Reyes From: Northern Nevada 6 days ago
| I almost feel like I did a different route than the others here. I found the climbing to be mid-ten for sure. Perhaps this is a reflection of being on the couch all winter, or the fact that I rarely do any slab routes. Get on it and let us know what YOU think. |
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