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Yellow Dot goes up the arete directly. This has solid 11 climbing to a bouldery, 12 crux midway up, then more 11 to finish.
The route is located on the arete to the right of the giant, bolted, "wishbone" dihedral, on the east face of Chicken Head Ranch.
Got to this route per Tod Anderson's great new guide, "Rampart Range Rocks." Thanks for the fun new climbs, Tod!
11 bolts, includes 2 bolt anchor.
From: Vail, CO
Sep 19, 2010
Maybe it's just me, but this crux was hard for 12a. Very sequential. But a such a sweet climb!
|By Andy McAdams|
Jul 17, 2011
Having just climbed this route today, I found the crux to be fairly stiff as well; however, I did enjoy pulling the small overhang at the end.
|By Christian Mason|
From: Arvada, CO
May 15, 2012
It's not just you. I thought the crux on this one was really tough for 12a as well. The climb itself was stellar though.
Aug 1, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
We found this one oddly difficult for 12a at Devil's Head. It seemed considerably more difficult than the other 12a's (or pretty much anything up to 12c for that matter) I've done there. Kind of bizarre.
The climbing just to get up to the crux is fairly in your face. This is some great climbing. The crux seemed pretty low probability, particularly on a hot humid day. It took us a bit to figure something out. I didn't really find the moves in the crux to be that enjoyable, but I typically don't enjoy sloper slapping in the first place, so I am somewhat biased. The climbing above the crux is no gimme either. The holds are pretty bad.
Very interesting route.