Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
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I am not knocking Tony, by any means. He crusies most 12's, and solos 10's. So his perception of the difference between a 5.5 and a 5.7 is sort of jadeded. That is, to him, everything below 5.8 is just 5.FUN , and it all sort of looks about the same. Consider this, could you differenciate between a 5.3 and 5.1? I know that I would be hard pressed to.
Really, ratings are great to measure yourself, but nothing to live and die by. I try to use them as a guide, so when I attempt a new route it will fall somewhere in the range of that rating maybe harder, or easier, but somewhere close.
Well, it has been a long while since I have done this route, but I feel the grade is 5.7. I remember never having climbed it before and reading the Chuck's book that said 5.5, I was soloing that day and decided to do it. I felt soild soloing 5.8 at the time, but was surprised by the 5.5 grade. Felt harder than that to me. Two cents deposited.
Addressing one, gear, and the difficulty of placing that gear. This has no bearing of the actual difficulty rating attached to a route. A route being run-out, or having sketchy gear is usually reflected in the X or RX ratings, not the YDS numbers.
I am not sure if that was the inital point, but I just wanted to be clarify, and make this point, applicable or not.
This route is NOT 5.5. It is definitely 5.7, maybe even bordering some 5.8 moves. Somebody needs to update this rating. I went out and did the climb this weekend thinking it was going to be a 5.5, I was in fur quite a surprise, but did finish it without a fall or take, so I was still happy. The route IS fun though and worth doing.
By Stan Jones From: Benbrook, TX Apr 26, 2010 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
To me, getting off the ground was tricky but not hard. The cruxes were the offwidth just below the ledge in the middle of the route and the slightly overhanging move a bit above the ledge. I also agree with the 5.7 rating.
By bad dude From: Oklahoma City,OK Apr 30, 2011 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b PG13
I did this climb onsite, and loved it. we split it into two pitches and belayed the second pitch from the ledge halfway up the route.
Did this as a single pitch. Agree with the 5.7 rating as there are some committed moves. Doing this again, I would definitely split it up into two pitches due to the rope drag. This would be a great multi-pitch practice route.