Yellow Brick Road 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 550 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | George and Joanne Urioste, Mike Ward, Bill Bradley |
| Submitted By: | J. Thompson on Feb 15, 2005 |
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This is nearing the top of the route, after it has...
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Description Yellow Brick Road is more of a 2 pitch variation to Dream of Wild Turkerys. Start by climbing the first 2 pitches of DOWT. Pitch 1- 5.6, Pitch 2- 5.8. On pitch 3 you will start the pitch the same as you would for DOWT. About 30ft into the pitch you will reach the rightward traverse for DOWT, instead of traversing, continue straight up the crack(at first) then follow the obvious line of bolts to a hanging belay- 5.10b. Historical note- there is a metal plaque bolted to the wall where these 2 routes diverge, it tells you which way to go! Pitch 4 follows another line of bolts above the belay. Continue up until reaching a small ledge, the belay here is shared with DOWT- 5.10a. Pitch 5 follow the left-facing flake to its top, passing several bolts, then traverse back left(bolts) to gain a crack. Follow this crack up approx 20 ft to a "scooped" ledge on the left. From here you can either continue up DOWT or rappel using anchors on DOWT, and the Gobbler. Bring 2 ropes if you choose to rap.
Protection A standard rack to a #1 camalot will suffice.
BETA PHOTO: The Route
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The historic plaque on Yellow Brick Road...
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John and Bennett on the P1 belay of YBR
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Collin putting up the first pitch of YBR
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Didn't expect this slab finish to pitch 2 of YBR.
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| Comments on Yellow Brick Road |
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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Feb 21, 2005
| In the photo above Yellow Brick Road connect's the 2 and the 5. |
By Edward Jenner
Mar 29, 2005
rating: 5.10b
| My first (and only) route on this wall, and it was super fun. Maybe less stars compared to others - I wouldn't know.
The third pitch, although not hard, is long. I found that I was shaking out my legs rather than my arms, and after pulling through the slightly harder moves that mark the crux I was ready to get to the anchors. None of the other pitches are nearly as sustained, so after this pitch, the next one will seem short and quite easy. |
By Doug Bruce
Oct 5, 2005
rating: 5.10b
| The topo actually shows the belays for "Dream of Wild Turkeys". Pitch 3 goes straight up from from the belay at the end of Pitch 2. The belay for the end of Pitch 4 is where the Pitch 5 belay for DoWT comes back left.Another thing that might be useful to quick visitors like we were, is that you drop into the wash when the trail splits and stay there until towards the end of the of the short wall below Black Velvet Wall itself. The Supertopo guide -although providing great topos - is a bit confusing and bemusing in this regard, whereas the Falcon guide is much clearer.Overall a fantastic place to be: I'll be back to do the Prince of Darkness the next time I am in North America. |
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Nov 7, 2005
| Hey Doug....I think you meant Picture not topo....and I'll refer you to comment number 1...... |
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Nov 27, 2006
| Awesome route. I found there to be one very distinct crux on the third pitch (P1 of YBR). I went into this expecting more crack climbing; in reality this is almost entirely a face climb, a super fun very well-protected one at that. |
By FC John
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 30, 2008
rating: 5.10b
| This route was fantastic.
I almost got sandbagged into leaving all of the gear at the 2nd set of anchors and just climbing on draws. After the first two gear pitches. A set of 14 draws, stoppers and small TCUs should get you through the upper pitches, which were AWESOME! Do this route now. |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.10b
| Did Gobbler and linked it with Yellow Brick Road and DoWT. After doing the "reverse traverse" on DoWT, we built an anchor by the plaque where DoWT and Yellow Brick Road split. P1 of Yellow Brick Road is sweet. Very sustained and fun climbing. P2 of YBR was significantly easier. |
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 17, 2011
| The original bolts on this route were painted yellow. From the photos, it appears that this is no longer true.
Description should include descent info: Click your heels together three times while chanting "there's no place like Vegas." |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 18, 2011
rating: 5.10
| George- I believe YBR got its bolts replaced along with the majority of the other routes on the wall back when the ASCA was able to get a power drilling permit for Red Rock- Greg left the plaque for historical reasons, but otherwise all of George's original bolts got replaced with bolts that would actually hold a fall! |
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2011
| Thanks, John. I do not advocate yellow bolts, but I thought it was an interesting piece of history about the route. I wish I had taken some photos of it back then! |
By darryl banks
Oct 9, 2011
| fun route but compare dis "10b" to "10c nirvana @ suicide" no move harder den 5.9 |
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