||Trad, 1 pitch, 80', Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Fred Becky and ? 1964. Freed by Tom Hargis and Don McPherson, 1972|
|Season: ||Most of the Year|
|Page Views: ||97|
|Submitted By: ||Ken Trout on Jan 26, 2009|
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|Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>|
This route is so good that Fred Becky notes he did it twice on the day it was first done. Start with a cruxy bulge, passed with help from a tricky flake. Then some bolted face climbing up to a roof. Follow the steep crack up right to VW ledge. Rappel or lower from here. It is possible to climb a 5.6 or 5.9 second pitch to the top.
Midnight Rock has long had a reputation as the Cookie Cliff of Washington. While Yosemite's Cookie has lots more to do, it might be fair to say that Yellow Bird is a better 5.10a pitch than can be found at the Cookie.
The first pitch used to be rated 5.9.
This is the first route reached on the dusty approach. The rest of the routes at Midnight require negotiating some exposed class three across Dead End Ledge. I found the Yellow Bird belay zone to be acceptable for a none climber.
Up to a #2 Camalot. Maybe bring some bigger stuff if planning to bag the "summit".
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 20, 2014
FA- Jim Stuart, David Beckstead, 1963, 5.7 A3, pitons and 4) 1/4" bolts.
FFA- Don McPherson, Tom Hargis, they called it 5.9.
The North Ramp route would be the first that you come to( but the start is an overgrown mossy gully) on the main wall from the approach, Nightingale next then Yellowbird.