|a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
A wild climb with a fun overhang on the first pitch, and some exciting face moves and an awkward alcove on the second pitch.
Start about 20' right of Yellow Ridge, at a corner with a thin crack on the right face.
P1: Climb the thin crack and face to an overhang. Turn the overhang on the left to an arete. Climb a wide crack to a belay stance on the arete. 5.8, 70'.
P1 variation: The wide crack can be bypassed by traversing left, climbing a face, then moving back right above the wide section.
P2: Continue up the arete, then move left and up a thin face with poor pro to a cramped alcove below a roof. Turn the roof on the left (crux, good pro) and continue to the top. 5.8+ PG, 90'.
Standard Rack. I used a Ball Nut to protect the thin crack at the start of the climb. The wide crack at the end of P1 would need a very large cam (5") to protect it.
Nov 15, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Got to only lead P1 as it was getting dark. I used an offset brassie and a green ballnut to protect initial moves. Roof felt hard for a 5.8, but there is a bomber fingerlock on top, so bomber that I was afraid I would rip my finger off if my feet came off (feet looked sleek). After fussing around and cutting my cuticles, I thought it wasn't worth risking a broken finger, so I bypassed the roof on the right and then traversed back to the corner crack. The crack above the roof is wide! I grunted my way up, I don't think even #5 would have been helpful - I was able to jam my entire body and my women's size 7 foot wasn't long enough for a secure jam across (people with bigger feet may be able to use the crack to jam their feet). Great little climb, can't wait to get back to do P2.
From: Jersey City, NJ
Jun 11, 2012
great climb that is often open due to the offputting tree in the corner on pitch 1. Pitch 2 has two nice very different cruxes. Double ropes are helpful and let you rap off Alphonse.
Jun 25, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
made me wonder why I rock climb. awkward and manky. terrible route compared to others next to it.