|a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
A wild climb with a fun overhang on the first pitch, and some exciting face moves and an awkward alcove on the second pitch.
Start about 20' right of Yellow Ridge, at a corner with a thin crack on the right face.
P1: Climb the thin crack and face to an overhang. Turn the overhang on the left to an arete. Climb a wide crack to a belay stance on the arete. 5.8, 70'.
P1 variation: The wide crack can be bypassed by traversing left, climbing a face, then moving back right above the wide section.
P2: Continue up the arete, then move left and up a thin face with poor pro to a cramped alcove below a roof. Turn the roof on the left (crux, good pro) and continue to the top. 5.8+ PG, 90'.
Standard Rack. I used a Ball Nut to protect the thin crack at the start of the climb. The wide crack at the end of P1 would need a very large cam (5") to protect it.
Nov 15, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
Got to only lead P1 as it was getting dark. I used an offset brassie and a green ballnut to protect initial moves. Roof felt hard for a 5.8, but there is a bomber fingerlock on top, so bomber that I was afraid I would rip my finger off if my feet came off (feet looked sleek). After fussing around and cutting my cuticles, I thought it wasn't worth risking a broken finger, so I bypassed the roof on the right and then traversed back to the corner crack. The crack above the roof is wide! I grunted my way up, I don't think even #5 would have been helpful - I was able to jam my entire body and my women's size 7 foot wasn't long enough for a secure jam across (people with bigger feet may be able to use the crack to jam their feet). Great little climb, can't wait to get back to do P2.
Jun 11, 2012
great climb that is often open due to the offputting tree in the corner on pitch 1. Pitch 2 has two nice very different cruxes. Double ropes are helpful and let you rap off Alphonse.
Jun 25, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
made me wonder why I rock climb. awkward and manky. terrible route compared to others next to it.